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"4V"GBIZ2۷mG"&AB@4<[Q4/</<?BK*U,M/ ?<NNJ@k:`IG:ܹm*N2<0<4]Q:/</<?B/?< NNJ@kD f0B?<"NNTм/Hz /<NN 8LN<.O @`! #@%`')+-1 3@5`79;=?A C@E`GIKOQ OU`WY[]_/c@e`gikmoq s@u`wy{} @ @ ` @ ` @ ` @ o ǀ ɠ @ ` ٠  @` @`!Aa  !Aa!!#A%a')+-/1!3A5a79;=A!CAEaGIKMO/SAUaWY[]_a!Oeagikmoq!suawy{}AaAa!a!A!Aaɡ!Aaׁ١!Aa!Aa B b  !"!B!b!!!!"!""#B"%b"'")+"-"/#1"#3B#5b#7##;#=#?$A"$CEb$G$I$K$M$O%Q"%SB%Ub%%Y%[%]%_&a"&cB&eb&g&&k&m&o'q"'sB'ub'w'y'{}'("(B(b((((()")B)b)))))*@*b*****+"+B+b+++++,",O @`! #@%`')+-1 3@5`79;=?A C@E`GIKOQ OU`WY[]_/c@e`gikmoq s@u`wy{} @ @ ` @ ` @ ` @ o ǀ ɠ @ ` ٠  @` @`!Aa  !Aa!!#A%a')+-/1!3A5a79;=A!CAEaGIKMO/SAUaWY[]_a!Oeagikmoq!suawy{}AaAa!a!A!Aaɡ!Aaׁ١!Aa!Aa B b  !"!B!b!!!!"!""#B"%b"'")+"-"/#1"#3B#5b#7##;#=#?$A"$CEb$G$I$K$M$O%Q"%SB%Ub%%Y%[%]%_&a"&cB&eb&g&&k&m&o'q"'sB'ub'w'y'{}'("(B(b((((()")B)b)))))*@*b*****+"+B+b+++++,",DOC_DISKPRGt}DESKTOP INF 8FASTER SWR UPGRADE SWR7.RAMDISK SWRPICSW7 SWRZCOPIER_BPC1//8BIGMONO SWRM>-FOFT SWRJ FOOTMAN2SWR MLJOURNEY SWRS4JUG SWRa{KINGDOM SWRshTKULT SWR~MISSION1SWRnRALLY SWRbZVIRUSES SWRs.KQ1 SWR KQ2 SWRl!FALCONM1PC1IBARDSMAPPC1X>CATACMB2PC1[8CATACMB3PC1` EACATACMBSPC1cDCATACOM1PC1f,ICATACOM2PC1i?DCATACOM3PC1mQFHARKYN1 PC1pcBHARKYN2 PC1tt=7HARKYN3 PC1w=HARKYNS1PC1z9GHARKYNS2PC1}GHARKYNS3PC19EKYTOWER PC1RMANGERS1PC1UHMANGERS2PC1FMANGERS3PC1aVMANGERS4PC1 EMANGERS5PC1*:SCARBCELPC19)SEWER1 PC1DcJSEWER2 PC1WGSEWER3 PC1iISEWERS PC1|8HSEWERS2 PC1FUTO !TARTGEMSWR:STARTGEMSWR#a000000 #b000000 #c7770007000600070055200505552220770557075055507703111103 #d #Z 01 A:\DOC_DISK.PRG@ #E 98 02 #W 00 00 0C 01 35 17 08 A:\*.*@ #W 00 00 0D 08 15 0B 00 @ #W 00 00 0E 09 15 0B 00 @ #W 00 00 0F 0A 15 0B 00 @ #M 00 00 00 FF A FLOPPY DISK@ @ #M 00 01 00 FF B FLOPPY DISK@ @ #T 00 03 02 FF TRASH@ @ #F FF 04 @ *.*@ #D FF 01 @ *.*@ #G 03 FF *.APP@ @ #G 03 FF *.PRG@ @ #F 03 04 *.TOS@ @ #P 03 04 *.TTP@ @ **************************************************************** * * * The FasterCopy/Blitz Copy Lead * * * **************************************************************** The ST software/hardware scene is nothing if not innovative. The latest is a very fast copier system that uses the printer port to transfer data to drive B. This system should back up ANYTHING! The possible exception might be those 'laser etched' discs (the ones with little holes burnt in 'em)...but I've not heard of a software house stupid enough to protect its titles like this. Make up and fit the lead as detailed below (see accompanying pic). Run the copy software (should be on a new SEWER utilities disc!) and you're set! Full credit for lead details goes to Alpha Man from Brum. He alone coded and developed this copy system....mega thanx and greetings! To paraphrase - you need to have an external drive!! - you need to run the 'BLITZ' software! - replace original lead to use drive B 'normally'. (ie:shifting files) ***** THE LEAD CONNECTIONS ***** PRINTER PORT PIN No. 14 PIN DIN SOCKET (Dest Drive) 2 (DATA 0) 2 (SIDE 0 SELECT) 3 (DATA 1) 5&6 (DRIVE 0/1 SELECT) 4 (DATA 2) 12 (WRITE GATE) 5 (DATA 3) 10 (STEP) 6 (DATA 4) 9 (DIRECTION IN) 7 (DATA 5) 8 (MOTOR ON) 8 (DATA 6) 14 (WRITE PROTECT) 9 (DATA 7) 4 (INDEX PULSE) 11 (BUSY) 13 (TRACK 00) 20 (GROUND) 7 (LOGIC GRND) 14 PIN DIN PLUG No. 14 PIN DIN SOCKET (Dest Drive) (ST Drive B Connector) 1 (READ DATA) 11 (WRITE DATA) 3 (LOGIC GRND) 3 (LOGIC GRND) Accompanying pic and this file typed by Sewer Possum. The usual disclaimers apply....neither Alpha Man frim Brum nor SEWER S'WARE are responsible should you fuck anything up.You shouldn't void any warranties by plugging this lead in - but with ATARI you never know! Thanks go to whoever typed this DOC. It was edited for Doc Disk 9 by Sewer Rat. As usual, we take no responsibility should you totally fuck your ST up, by doing these modifications yourself. Opening capture buffer... Here's the 1 Meg upgrade directions: I have brought this over un-editted from the arpanet info-st mailing list. I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ITS CONTENT OR ACCURACY. I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS MODIFICATION ON MY OWN ST AS YET. I AM PASSING THIS ALONG TO THOSE WHO DO WISH TO TRY IT. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK. WARNING: This is a hardware modification that will void the warranty of your 520ST. If you do not have the appropriate tools or experience you have a substantial chance of ruining your 520ST. Proceed at your own risk! This modification has been in my 520ST without any problems for 6 days now. However, I have (of course) not checked with knowledgable sources at Atari to verify if this modification endangers the long term machine reliability and/or software compatibility (I suspect it may endanger their software compatibility if enough of us do it!) Tools & components needed : 16 256k * 1 RAM chips, 150 ns access time type, e. g. NEC 41256C-15 A good quality, preferrably temperature controlled soldering iron, with a minature tip (tip should be narrow enough to avoid touching 2 I. C. pins at the same time). E. g. Weller type soldering station. Good quality resin core solder (thin). Approximately 4 foot of wire-wrap wire and a good stripper for it. (you will have to route 3 wires over a sequence if I.C. pins. The easiest way to do this is to have a stripper allowing you to shift the insulation forward over the wire, solder the next point, measure new length, shifover insulatiooon, etc. until the endpoint). The "No Nik" 0.014 (dark green handle) wire wrap stripper is the best tool for this. Desoldering wick and solder suction tool. Philips type screwdriver (for opening your ST), tweezers, pliers, etc. A steady hand and self-confidence. Explaination of the modification : (Please read the rest of this document before starting. It may save you time and an 520ST!!!) The current memory inside the 520ST consists of 16 256K*1 RAM chips. Address (A0..A8) lines are common to all those chips. The Write Enable line is also common to all chips. Data (in and out) lines are of course individual. The RAS (row-address strobe) line is common to all chips. The 8 chips forming the high order byte group have one common CAS line, and the 8 forming the low order byte group have one common CAS line (CAS is used as enable for write operations, such that WriteEnable can be common to both groups). The high order group from MSB to LSB consists of U45, 44, 43, 42, 38, 34, 33, 32. The low order group of U30, 29, 28, 25, 24, 28, 27, 26. Note that all chips are adjacent, though the numbering has gaps. RAS0, CAS0H, and CAS0L are supplied from U1 pin 8,6 and 7 respectively (The 0 indicates bank 0) Bank 1 that you are going to build in will be "piggy-backed" on top of the current chips, where all pins of the new chips EXCEPT RAS (pin 4) and CAS (pin 15) are soldered to the old chips equivalent pins. Thus they will end up sharing addresses, data, Write Enable and power with the existing chips. All ras pins of the new chips are wired together and will be supplied with the "RAS1" signal generated on pin 18 of u15 (memory controller, marked 3H-2119C or so). The CAS pins of the 8 new high order byte chips (on top of U45..U32) are wired together and supplied from the "CAS1H" signal generated on pin 22 of U15. Analogously, the CAS pins of the new U30 to U16 are wired together and supplied with "CAS1L" from pin 21 of U15. How to go about it:- Step 1: Open up your 520ST, pull off the keyboard connector and remove the main circuit card from its top and bottom shielding. Make sure to remember which screws go where and note the keyboard connector orientation. Step 2: Desolder all of the capacitors adjacent to the existing RAM chips. (DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP. You'll lose time if you do, and worse, the modification will no be reliable since you can't solder pins obstructed by the capacitors reliably (if at all)). To desolder them, I found it easiest to heat the island on the non component side, and bend the wires straight. After doing that or each capacitor, turn over to the component side and heat the islands wile pulling the capacitor out with the tweezers. Step 3: Open up the holes of all the desoldered capacitors, using a combiation of de-soldering wick and suction tool. Do this from the non component side. If certain holes are difficult to open up, you may want to use a wood splinter. (push it through while heating). Be carefull to remove all solder debris!! THE REASON for opening the holes NOW is that they will be less accessible once you've done the other steps! Patience is a virtue. (NOTE: Step 2 & 3 are the only ones that may damage your ST PC board. Be sure not to use excessive force while pullling out the capacitors. If you damage your PC board anyway, cure the problem now and not later). Step 4: In this step we will piggyback the new RAM's on top of the old oes. Be sure to connect all pins except pin 4 (RAS) and 15 (CAS). The best way to go about this is to do chip by chip. First, bend the pins of the new RAM's such that they are perpendicular to the package (instead of having slightly spread "cowboy legs"). Use pliers to bend pin 4 and 15 such that it comes out of the I.C. package horizontal, and cut off the excess length of pins 4 and 15 (I mean part of the pin, you still need to be able to solder to it!). Make sure that the new RAM fits snnugly on top of the old one (in the same orientation!!!), without intervening space and with the new pins touching the old ones. Now solder each pin (except the non-touching 4 and 15) to the other RAM's. The best way to do this with the least chance of damage is to touch both the new RAM's pin and the old RAM's pin. Heat them both for a second and add A LITTLE solder then. Wait till the solder flows. After each I.C., check all pins carefully to assure a good connection. (use a magnifying glass) NOTE: This step is crucial for the long term reliability of the memy extension. AAA badly soldered joint may show up later as sporadic memory errors. TAKE YOUR TIME. (NOTE: until step 6 is finished, do no in any way apply power to your ST. This intermediate state of affairs will damage your memory chips!!) Step 5: Remount all the desoldered capacitors. Bend the pins like they were before resoldering, suchthat they will not touch the lower shielding. Solder from the non component side. Step 6: In this step you will route the 3 wires mentioned earlier. The first wire connects pin 4 (RAS) of all the new RAM's to pin 18 of U15. The second wire connects pin 15 (CAS) of the new U45 to U32 to 22 (CAS1H) of U15. The third wire connects pin 15 (CAS) of the new U30 to U16 to pin 21 of U15. The best way to do this is to use the stripper to remove 5 inches of insulation. Solder the first IC pin to the end of the blank wire, measure the distance to the next pin in sequence and shift over that amount of insulation. Continue in this fashion until all the pins in sequence are done. Work from U45 to the left, soldering directly to the leftover pins on the new chips. Make sure that no wire or solder sticks out above the the top plane of the new chips, since they will almost touch the top shielding! Route he wires through the PC board hole below and to the left of U15 to connect to U15 on the non component side. Step 7: Sit back. Use Brain. Do you feel confident about the quality of your work? No mistakes? Check evrything once again if you are but a little uncertain. Applying power with errors might make your ST into a decorative, nonfunctional piece of art. OK. Either rebuild your ST into its shielding and cabinet, or put it onto a surface clear of wires and solder remians and connect it to monitor, disk and supply. Boot it. It it boots, you're probably there. Test if the new memory works by looking at the phystop variable ($42E) with SID if you have the developer stuff. It should read $100000 (1M hex). Also note that memcntlr ($424) now holds 5 instead of 4, and that v_bas_ad ($44E) now holds $F80000 (screen bitmap origin). If you don't have the developer stuff, try a single drive copy and check that you get the hole disk in one buffer instead of two if the new memory does not seem to exist, use sid to deposit and retrieve words on locations $80000 and up (1/2 Meg hex). If bit errors occur, the ST bootROM did not detect the extension (it checks all bits of 512 locations by testing a psedo random sequence, before accepting a memory bank). Try to pin point the faulty chip(s) and removg the error. If it doesn't boot you`re in trouble. I`m sorry. It is difficult to give hints on what to do here. So many possibilities. Desoldering the new chips probably won't work (if the old ones were functional, the ST would still boot). Check for hidden short:circuit on the RAM pins. May also be that you have a flaky new pin connection. That's all there is... PLEASE REMEMBER THAT I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS AND I AM SIMPLY PASSING THIS ALONG FOR THOSE WHO WOULD LIKE TO TRY DOING THIS. BUT I HAVE HERD THE A PERSON IN THE UK HAS DONE THIS MOD AND IT SEAMS TO WORK OK. ****************************************************************************** A circuit modification to the intelligent keyboard power supply that allows the time of day clock to have uninterrupted power. *********************************************************************** ************* WARNING THIS CIRCUIT MAY VOID YOUR WARRANTY ************* ************* AND I MAKE NO CLAIMS AS TO ITS RELIABILITY ************* *********************************************************************** Current operating system 7/85 has bug that loads a predetermined time and date into the clock at power on and reset. ( I have been told that this will be corrected in a later version. ) power input choke ( Located at power input plug ) | | | | gnd -12 +12 +5 + Power at these | \points on all L___I---I time. I 5 I ( Limits current to max of 75ma. ) ______I v I Cost aprox $1.50 | IregI 75ohm r __I---I r | | | # r 2.2ohm gnd r -->>>---+battery ( 4 AA Ni-Cad in series - to ground) diode ( Charge current 50ma. ) The keyboard draws 20ma batterys provide 500mah ------------------- I Intelligent I I Keyboard I I Clock I I time day date yrI I I | ( continued wire from keyboard ) | | diode +---<<<-+--to on led (cut + wire of led. run this wire | | to the led and connect ) diode | | ---->>>---+ | From From pin 13 plug battery from mother board +5v to key board. 5v supply to keyboard cut wire and add diode in series with wire as shown above. The above circuit has been in my ST for the last 4 weeks with no problems. The ST may be turned off for an unlimited time and the clock will still be powered but you only have 24 hours if ST unplugged from wall ( ac supply ). Total cost of materials $12.50 Following are instructions for use and the complete source code to a ram disk sutiable for 1 meg only. We do not know who originally wrote this file, but as usual, special thanks and greetings go to the kind soul responsible. Edited by Sewer Rat. The program below is in its current form only runnable on a 1M modified ST. It is installed as a desk accessory (== gets loaded at boottime and stays resident), takes over the BIOS disk i/o vectors and implements the device driver for drive D. The RAMdisk is identical to a Single Sided standard 520ST floppy. It is extremely fast, when you put the header files and C-source on the RAMdisk, compilation takes only the Compiler/assembler code load time (+- 30 Seconds). Loading MicroEmacs is almost instantaneous. Though I feel a little ashamed at distributing this slightly primitive version, I thought a lot of people would be happy to use this. I know this version runs reliable, and speeds up my own program debug cycle by a factor of 10 or more. (Which I wouldn't be interested in if it weren't that I have to program in C ! When's the first high-level language coming out ??) If anyone comes up with a more usefull program (e.g. using the terminate and stay resident call instead of wasting a desk accessorie, and/or creating an arbitrary size RAMdisk with valid filestructure), please distribute that in public domain too ! Further distribution of this program is suggested - I hope it will stimulate people to do the 1 M mod. I'd appreciate the header to be left as is when redistributing. Here is the source for mow : ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- /* RAM DISK ACCESSORY version 1.1 - sept 10, 1985, Gert Slavenburg, Mountain View, CA. For Atari 520ST with RAM extension to 1 MByte. Link this program with accstart,%1,osbind,vdibind,aesbind This is the first, experimental version of the RAMdisk. It should be installed as a DESK ACCESSORY on the Bootdisk. (that is it should be called either DESK1,DESK2, or DESK3.ACC). Before re-booting, and thus activating it, the menu entry "install disk" should be used to install drive "D" with icon-label "RAMDISK". Then save the desktop to make the newly installed drive permanent. Now re-boot end enjoy. (write protect if you're paranoid - I am) This version (1.1) avoids any directory knowledge by just copying the whole disk that it is booted on into the RAMdisk. This makes booting seem to take forever. Throw away any files on the RAMdisk that you don't want by just deleting them ! You may get annoyed by my trick to let the RAMdisk give a beep every 30 seconds. This was a debugging tool for me to see if it's still alive, and I get worried now if I don't hear it anymore... To remove it, just replace the "beep" statement in procedure "sleep". known bugs : 1) GEMDOS refuses to do full diskette copy to/from the RAMdisk. Don't know why it does that, since the BPB's are identical. Lots of fun - Gert */ #include "portab.h" #include "obdefs.h" #include "define.h" #include "gemdefs.h" #include "osbind.h" struct bpb { WORD recsiz, /* see BIOS:rwabs.c for more info */ clsiz, clsizb, rdlen, fsiz, fatrec, datrec, numcl, bflags; }; /* stupid AES binding arrays - what a drag */ int contrl[12]; /* better find out what's REALLY NEEDED */ int intin[128]; int ptsin[128]; int intout[128]; int ptsout[128]; /* the variables below are really serious */ typedef LONG (*PFL)(); /* define "pointer to function returning a long" */ typedef WORD (*PFW)(); /* define "pointer to function returning a word" */ PFL getbpb; /* pointer to the systems original getbpb function */ PFW mediach; /* pointer to the systems original mediach */ PFL rwabs; /* pointer to the systems original rwabs */ struct bpb rdiskbpb = { 512, 2, 1024, 7, 5, 6, 18, 351, 0 }; /* same as Single Sided microdiskette */ int data[184320]; /* 720 sectors of 512 bytes */ /* same as Single Sided microdiskette */ LONG RDgetbpb(dev) WORD dev; { if (dev != 3) return( (*getbpb)(dev) ); /* pass all non-RAMdisk to old handler */ else { return( &rdiskbpb ); /* return our bpb */ } } WORD RDmediach(dev) WORD dev; { if (dev != 3) return((*mediach)(dev)) ; /* pass all non-RAMdisk to old handler */ else return( 0 ); /* RAMDISK media never changes */ } LONG RDrwabs(rw,buf,count,recno,dev) WORD rw; int *buf; WORD count, recno, dev; { int i, *p; if (dev != 3) return( (*rwabs)(rw,buf,count,recno,dev) ); /* pass it on */ else { if (rw > 1) rw -=2; /* we never change media anyway */ while ( count > 0 ) { p = &data[((long) recno) * 256L];/* both casts necessary - C068 bug */ if (rw==0) /* read */ for (i=0; i<256; i++) *buf++ = *p++; else /* write */ for (i=0; i<256; i++) *p++ = *buf++; count--; recno++; } return(0L); } } install() /* take over DISKIO vectors, MUST RUN AS SUPERVISOR */ { long *bpbvect = 0x472; long *rwvect = 0x476; long *mcvect = 0x47e; long *devset = 0x4c2; getbpb = (PFL) *bpbvect; /* save old vectors */ mediach = (PFW) *mcvect; rwabs = (PFL) *rwvect; *bpbvect = RDgetbpb; /* install new ones */ *mcvect = RDmediach; *rwvect = RDrwabs; /* vectors set-up, include in deviceset : */ *devset = (*devset) | (0x8L); } sleep() /* sleep forever */ { int i; while (1) { i = evnt_timer(30000,0); /* wait 30 Sec. */ Bconout(2,7); /* BEEP to show I'm alive */ } } main() { appl_init(); /* this is needed even to link - Yack !!!!!!! */ Rwabs(0,data,720,0,0); /* copy drive A: into RAMdisk data array */ xbios(38,install); /* INSTALL vectors in SUPV MODE */ sleep(); /* accessories never end ..... */ } Press to continue: [74156,2725] RAMDSK.DOC 11-Sep-85 6565 116 (R D T): `Y*o"mEv$"mEx$Ed$B?< NA\ML,?<NNTCX"$@?<NNTAL2<<g2<gNqQC4|9<f|%Hz?< Nq\a&3@/:?< NA\*z&z k -"zJgёBJAg<f``&z+k +k+k  -"- Ҁ+A -Ҁ+A :tм$@*@$<HC2Q"zD(I$:<R(z6&L,z6$z6:6N&&Q"o&iBm2<<g2<gNqQ LBBBBBBB"A$B&C(D*E,FNE4@ z"z$`G&G&* faxe@\ )P.K<X b /0,1"[$(  @`3x6 x `@<< B9  ӛfĔ<ƘU)k dA@p`A(p@Z 0!p6q",x,N#@P\b@@, 'X1 G:`B@K(bDyI@Ѐ :` G|ud(l}Ż pr8\ pLEA@UI00A0C ݖ @ɀ X@ѿ !s! nP(xv к!/s W0BN$e0n) O@ (`5 .lH`kB ABL@])d bv b`(x ?+xL _P aM[x~$ dU'_[` .E 9 @ʲ$ @H00 Td,N- @Ђy,`ke Dg{fG4$hPnPƀ PāAH4U  )AA9nCb` ƘrH $ 6h!]@(21g"֐S`b !Z1@x3` ,6.0) h1Le"( 4@ hPBaAp Р @Ͽ HسA@怠" H (0i () 8@4Dp\@9Hyd@ڋ􍔀ɵ ! 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As usual, we take no responsibility for any damage caused as a result of this doc. If you are not qualified to make these modifications, find someone who is and get them to do it for you. Edited by Sewer Rat. HOW TO ENLARGE YOUR SM124 MONOCHROME MONITOR'S SCREEN SIZE by Jack P. Durre' If you've used the Atari ST computers with the SM124 monochrome monitor, chances are quite good that you have come to accept the wide (black or white) border surrounding the usable area of the screen. You may have asked "why?", but probably only grumbled about it, and went back to work. If you've got the time (about 15 minutes, on average), the tools (3 or 4, and available from most Radio Shack stores), and the nerve (very little required!), this article will explain how you can actually have a LARGER, usable screen (as compared to the Mac)! First, credit where credit is due...The original information for this modification came from the April, 1986 issue of "ST APPLICATIONS" magazine, in an article written by Albert Lew. I am merely explaining my own methods, following the original steps as outlined in Mr. Lew's article. That said, let's get the caveats out of the way: While I may personally consider the following modifications to be simple and straightforward, I can't write a "Hello World" program in BASIC!!! In other words, what may be "simple" for me, may be quite difficult for you. If you feel that you are NOT qualified to make these modifications, DON'T! Find an able (and willing!) friend or service technician to do it for you, or forget the whole idea, and live with what you've got! If your monitor is in warranty, opening the case will, obviously, void that, and the possibility also exists that even if you wind up paying for repairs, the technician MAY refuse to work on your machine! (Chances are, however, that he's more likely to want to know more about making the mods himself!) Further, the electrical current coming from the wall plug is enough to knock you silly, or worse, and inside of the monitor case, it gets even stronger, so be aware that touching the wrong thing may well put you into an "endless loop" of your own! In other words, YOU CAN GET KILLED! Now, if you've decided that you'd "kill to have a larger screen", then follow me! Tools: These are really few in number, and quite simple to come by. Mr. Lew suggested some non-TV type of tools, but I'm going to stick to my guns here, and insist that you use the right tools for the job! You'll need a Phillips screwdriver, preferably a #1 size. (If you don't know the difference between a Phillips, and a slotted-head screwdriver, let me stop you right here, and suggest that you return to your programming!) You'll also need two TV "tuning tools"; a hex-tool, 3/32" ("across the flats", as they say) and a flat-bladed tool, 1/8" or so in blade width. Both of these tools should be made of non-conductive (plastic) material, and longer is better! A make-up mirror is also quite handy, particularly a free-standing one. I might also suggest a thick towel or other material to protect the face of your monitor and the top of your desk, during the time that you are moving it around. Finally, the toughest item of all...some CLEAR SPACE! You'll need to move the monitor around a little, and of course, it will need to be connected to your CPU (and I DON'T recommend trying to balance it in your lap!), so plan accordingly. Next, let's try to orient ourselves, so that you aren't amputating the screen, while I am talking about the power cord! The "front" of the monitor is the viewing screen, the "rear" is where the power cord, and CPU/Monitor connector cable exit the case. Since we're going to turn the entire thing around, so that the screen is facing AWAY from us, "right" will now be the side where the speaker is located, and "left" obviously (it IS, isn't it?) will be opposite that, where the control knobs are. "Top" will still be in its usual location, and if you haven't already figured out where the bottom is, it's time for another cup of coffee!!! Ready? Here we go! Boot your system, using either the desktop, with one or more windows opened, or call up a text file. The ideal situation is to have text reaching all four corners of the screen, so that you will be able to compare from one area to another. Now, unplug the monitor's power cord from the socket in the cabinet, and turn the monitor around, so that the rear of the case is facing you. Place the towel or padding on the desktop in front of the monitor, and tip the entire unit up onto the glass face (carefully!). Now, using the Phillips screwdriver, remove the 5 screws holding the cabinet together. (Two on the bottom, one on each side, about 3/4s of the way up, and one just above the power cable socket.) Once these have been removed, put them somewhere safely out of the way, and don't worry about mixing them up, they're all the same size. Now, gently lift straight upwards on the rear sides of the case, and it should begin to lift away...CAREFUL! You have yet to disconnect the speaker wires, and there's not too much extra wire here. See it? Carefully reach down to the connector where it joins with the mother board, and pull it straight away from the board, disconnecting it. Don't be too concerned about the orientation of the plug, as it will work in either direction. Once you've done this, continue to lift the rear section of the cabinet away, feeding the CPU/Monitor cable through the opening as necessary. Set the cabinet out of the way (And don't STEP ON IT!), and proceed with the REAL modifications! Tip the monitor back down to its bottom, and arrange the mirror so that you can see the screen while working at the rear of the unit. Re-connect the power cord, and turn on the monitor, being careful to NOT stick your fingers inside the wrong areas! Grab your plastic flat-blade tool, and start looking along the right side of the mother board (remember now, we're looking from the rear of the set!). Near the front of the board, neatly tucked between the picture tube, or CRT, and a vertical metal heatsink/power board, is a row of 3 white adjustable controls, or potentiometers, about 1/2" in diameter, labelled "VLINE", "VSIZE", and "VHOLD". We're interested in "VSIZE", which is the middle control "pot". (NOW you know why I suggested a long tuning tool!) Gently slip the tool into the slotted head of the pot, and while watching the screen in the mirror (you DID boot up the system, didn't you?), begin to turn the tool slightly (try not to apply much pressure to the pot, as that CAN effect the setting). The top and bottom of the screen will begin to move, together or apart! Expand the screen to within approximately 1/2" - 3/4" of the top and bottom of the "bezel", or plastic frame on the front of the monitor. (Too close to the bezel, and you'll find that you have to be EXACTLY in front of the screen, or miss some of the information!) See? Feeling more confident already, aren't we? Moving right along, we will now swap our tuning tools, opting for the hex-shaped one. Looking near the left rear corner of the mother board, close to the point where the power cord socket is located, you will find a plastic shaft with a slot in it, sticking straight up from the board, and just slightly ahead of that, a strange-looking device, composed of a small-diameter tube, with what appears to be a couple of "bobbins" of wire on it. Inside of that small tube, there is a small, somewhat-fragile core of graphite, which WILL break, if mistreated, so act accordingly! Gently lower your hex-tool into this tube, and you will feel it slide home into the core. (Again, don't press down on the core.) By turning this core in a clockwise direction, and watching the mirror, you will see the screen shrink slightly first, and then grow WIDER!!! (Now we're really starting to cook!) Remember to leave about 1/2" - 3/4" border, to avoid having the edges hidden by the bezel. What's that you say? Your picture got larger, but it looks off-center? Well, cheer up, bunkie, 'cause we're gonna fix THAT right now! See that big chunk of glass up front? Well, it has a "neck" on it, and the back end is pointing directly at us, with some strange looking electronic stuff along the way. At the very back of the tube are some electrical connections, but we're not worried about them...what we're after are the two magnets that look sorta like "Q"s around the neck, about 1-2 inches forward of the connections. See 'em? They're dark grey or black, probably, and have a little "ear" sticking up away from the tube, so that you can gently push them around until you get the picture centered on the face of the CRT. Don't worry about touching THEM...just try to keep from resting your hands on any "hot" contacts! This may take a little time to screw up your courage, but once you get the hang of it, you'll find it quite easy! Once you've got the picture fairly well centered, you may need to go back and re-adjust the VSIZE or Horizontal size, as all of these things are interrelated. Next, we're gonna make the picture sharp again, in case you're worried that you've just lost that beautiful screen that you love so much! Remember the slotted plastic shaft at the left rear of the mother board? Well, THAT's the "FOCUS" control, and if you'll again resort to the flat-bladed tuning tool, you can use that control to find the best compromise for YOUR taste! Atari chose to go for a tack-sharp center screen, and let the corners be a little softer in focus. You can do the same, or go for sharp corners and let the center go a little soft, or shoot for some compromise. (Hey! Life's a compromise!) Once you've done this step, you can actually turn the set around, and admire your handiwork! If you see some other minor fine-tuning that you want to go back and do, feel free. This is now a CUSTOM-TUNED monitor of the first rank, and you will have even more pride in your ST than before! To reassemble the cabinet, turn off the power, slide the CPU/Monitor cable through the rear cabinet section, and with your third hand...yep, gotta remember to reconnect the speaker leads! There IS a sort of indicator as to which way the plug was originally connected...One side has two slots, and the other side has only one, but the speaker WILL work even if this connector is reversed. Incidentally, if you want to go one step further, Mr. Lew suggests the addition of an Audio-OUT connector from this lead. Your choice. Finally, having reassembled the cabinet, re-connect the monitor to the CPU, boot the system up, and check out the BIG PICTURE!!! If you have any problems, check first, to see that power is reaching the set, and that the green LED indicator is on. If not, you may not have reconnected the power cord securely, or possibly a fuse has blown or been broken (fuses are located on the vertical power board at the side, near the VSIZE pot, and easily replaced from Radio Shack). Enjoy your "new" monitor, and if you have any questions on this modification, you can reach me here, on CompuServe, at PPN 75046,476. Seeya! [Jack] Federation of Free Traders (FOFT) These quickie "docs" typed by: Phrobar Edited for Doc Disk 9 by Sewer Rat -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Okay everybody...Lets get this straight, QUARTEX cracks a game which looks like it might have some potential to be fun, and they leave us with NO DOCS? Or at least not at the present..Im on quite a few BBS' and I see it NOWHERE! Oh Well...The following commands are what I have been able to find out about the game itself..I have NO IDEA what I'm supposed to be doing in the game but the following commands do the following things: [SPACE] = Starts the program/ Resets to Control Panel when Quitting Instruments HELP - Loads a music (I think!?) S - Save game in progress (Saves onto a blank unformatted disk) L - Load a Saved game M - Reset Music to Beginning K - Kill the music!! Its stupid anyway! F1 - Activates "W" looking ship on radar screen F2 - Activates "SQUARE" looking ship F3 - Activates "CIRCLE" ship F4 - Another "W" ship! F5 - ATW Toggle On/Off (Whats this!?!?) F6 - Radar Screen Activate H - HyperSpace G (then) H - Galactic Jump F7 - Damage Control Panel F8 - EDI Computer (FedComp) "Save" Saves something!?! Current game I think... "Load" Loads something.. "Quit" goes back to main control panel Computer seems to understand BASIC commands.. F9 - Zoom in Radar F10 - Zoom out Radar ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thats about as much as I can figure out at this moment..I hope QUARTEX releases some dox to this..If they dont, Im sure my buddy Exolon (from FairLight) will type some up! Good going on those "Kingdoms of England" Docs, dude...Thats a shit-load of typing!!! Remember ME??? You gave me "KOENTSC.WRP" the other night?? I woke you up at 10 am YOUR time in Sweden..Sorry man...But THANKS for the file... Later All, Phrobar/EP (Exploding People) PS- How many of you lamers have "Traveler-pussy"?? It didnt mean to get around that fuckin fast dudez..I think every little fucker in America has it by now...SOME of that stuff aint true in it but some IS, but it was fun writting it anyways....SORRY TRAV! Didnt mean to hurt ya so bad..kall me sometime... Finished at: 3:02 am (Central) on Monday, July 3, 1989 ------------------------------------------------------ * FOOTBALL MANAGER II INSTRUCTIONS * Ported from Amiga to ST by Sewer Possum and edited for Doc Disk 9 by Sewer Rat. CONTROLS The whole game is controlled by the mouse. The game uses up/down/left/right to select items using the displayed pointer. FIRE is used to confirm a selection. TEAM SELECTION CONTROLS Team selection is carried out over three screens depicting defence, midfield and attack as follows: 1) The reserve pool slot is at the top of the screen. Pressing FIRE when pointing to the slot will produce the FIRE TO QUIT message. 2) When FIRE TO QUIT is displayed: a) UP/DOWN will scroll through your reserve players and pressing FIRE again will select one. b) LEFT/RIGHT will move to the next right or left screen if possible. c) FIRE again will end team selection if 11 players have been picked. 3) Moving the pointer to an empty slot and pressing FIRE will transfer the reserve player displayed at the top of the screen to that slot. 4) Pressing FIRE on a slot that contains a player will transfer him back to the reserves. 5) When finished you can select two subs using the same method. 6) Substitutes can be brought on at half-time. 7) Note that display slots are placed over the actual areas of the pitch that each player will cover. PLAYING GUIDE SPONSERSHIP At the start of each season you will be offered sponership. The maximum is #50,000 MANAGEMENT RECORD This is a record of your achievements and is measured in success points with a max of 100 points. LOAD/SAVE GAME Before each match you may load or save a game. THE MATCH See team selection controls for details. TEAM DISPLAY This is shown in three sections:defence, midfield and attack. Each team is shown with the players in their playing positions. The four paired slots on each screen show man-to-man marking of the players. The slot at the top of the screen contains your reserve players. PLAYING SKILL Players with higher skill will tackle and dribble more effectively past opponents of lesser skill. For each half of the match the players in one team are compared with their opponents, the highest value player will start a new playing action sequence. If the difference between the two players is close, no action sequence will occur. Players playing out of position e.g a defender playing in midfield will only have a skill rating of two. The goalkeepers skill is a measure of his ability to save shots. FORMATION You can play any formation you choose:4-4-2, 4-3-3 etc OPPONENTS Top league teams are stronger and more skillful than lowly teams. FITNESS During a match, players will pick up knocks and may be injured. FULL TEAM You must pick eleven players and two subs before being allowed to continue. PLAYING STYLES Using the 'extra training' option you can modify the style of your team. Thus your team will use close or long passing. Your opponents will also use varying styles. THE ACTION Each half consists of several action sequences. Each sequence continues until either the ball is out of play, a goal is scored or the goal keeper saves the shot. THE HOME TEAM The home team always starts the match playing from left to right. HALF TIME At half time you can bring on subs or alter the team formation. MATCH RESULTS After your match either: a) The other league results and table will be shown. b) The result of your cup match will be shown. INJURY REPORT This displays a list of your injured players. They will recover their fitness when rested from matchplay. FINANCE If your club goes into the red you will be sacked. Gate reciepts are dependant on whether you are playing at home or away. Cup success produces higher gate reciepts. PLayer 'buy/sell' is a total of your transfer market trading. A players wages are dependant on his skill level. Overheads are a record of the fixed costs that are incurred by your club. Profit is measured weekly. Financial values are higher as you rise up the divisions. SELL PLAYERS You can sell any of your players and an offer upto his displayed value will be made for him. If you have less that thirteen players you cannot make up a team and will forfeit the match. BUY PLAYER Upto three players will be available for purchase. The message SQUAD TOO BIG means you cannot buy another a player until you reduce your squad. EXTRA TRAINING If you get the PERFECTED message during extra training it means you have reached the maximum or minimum length or height and more extra training will be unneccesary. THE SEASON You will play all of the teams in your division once and progress as far as you can through the cups. Promotion and relegation at the end of the season is three up and three down. SUCCESS The aim of the game is to be as succesful as possible and try and win the league and both cups. PLAYER ATTRIBUTES Players have five attributes which are shown under the various displays. NAME - The players name is shown. SKILL - In the ranges 3 to 9. This effects his play during the match. FITNESS - Out of 100, this is reduced by playing in a match - as the player receives knocks or injuries. A player who is rested in the reserves will recover some of his fitness. POSITION G - GOALKEEPER D - DEFENDER M - MIDFIELD A - ATTACKER These are the players correct playing positions. The goalkeepers slot is over the goal. VALUE #30,000 to #360,000. This is directly affected by the players skill and the division you are playing in. The hack and instructions were brought to you by 007, Kam and Ital man. 23/06/88 at 23:10. JOURNEY ------- Extensive solution brought to you by Sewer Software. Edited and corrected by Sewer Rat 12/09/89. Outside of a store,what a perfect place to begin a game, oh well you might as well ENTER and LOOK AROUND. EXAMINE MAP and REPLY to storekeeper, it does'nt appear to worth be it but you might as well BUY MAP along with the FOOD. EXIT and PROCEED. ENTER the tavern EXAMINE CUSTOMERS and of course LOOK AROUND. Not much here so EXIT. You will be approached by a somewhat unsavoury looking character who will ask to join your party,you can GET ADVICE but for your party's sake ACCEPT or suffer the consequences later.Now that MINAR has joined your party you may PROCEED. Now that you have left Lavos, you have two paths to follow, but being as Minar is with you he might as well SCOUT. As suspected there are bandits lying in wait on the LEFT path so go RIGHT. Minar should now SCOUT again and discover a cairn. Praxix should first EXAMINE the BODIES to discover some essences, examining the CAIRN is of no great value. PROCEED. Once again Minar should SCOUT the area, FOLLOW SMOKE this will lead you to a hut. KNOCK. Inside you will find a hermit reply to his ravings by telling the TRUTH. Two things should be done here the first of which is for Praxix to EXAMINE HERMIT, this will reveal who he is. The second thing to be done is for Minar to LOOK AROUND the results will surprising and very useful. EXIT and EXAMINE BAG. PROCEED. You will now arrive at a stream let Esher EXAMINE STREAM then be greedy and FIND GOLD, you won't but it is important to look anyway. At this point you will be called upon to use magic to prevent a tragic accident. But first a little point to remember about the use of magic. The use of essences is of vital importance to the game so any wasting of them WILL! cause future problems, if you must play around with magic(and some very funny things can happen) save the game first. And now back to the game. CAST an ELEVATION spell at Tag to prevent the wall of water from washing Tag's pack away you will need it's contents later. After this Praxix will discover that there is no gold but instead there is vital water essence. From here on various members of the party will wish to recount their legends and stories allways read these carefully as vital clues and answers are to be found in these. Your next stop will be at a lake where after fishing Minar will disapper(it won't be the last time) forget about the lake you won't find him, PROCEED instead and ENTER CAVE. CAST GLOW on STAFF and PROCEED untill you arrive at a pool. ENTER POOL and then LEAVE TUBE. upon arriving you will find Minar but don't worry about him for the time being just HIDE.ENTER WIDE PATH and go LEFT, PICK UP TORCH and go BACK. Now go RIGHT and PICK UP BLUE AMULET you can't leave the treasury with it in your possession so PROCEED. At the second pool PICK UP COVER and DROP BLUE AMULET then make your way back to the SMELLY POOL and DIVE, PICK UP BLUE AMULET and SURFACE. Go BACK to Minar and EXAMINE MINAR he should be well enough to go with you so it's BACK TO THE CAVE where you will join the party, and once again PROCEED. At the river PROCEED UPSTREAM twice BUILD RAFT and LAUNCH RAFT. Keep CROSSing river untill you reach the other side. CAST GLOW on MAP and then EXAMINE MAP this will lead you to Astrix who will inform you of what is to be done. After leaving the Sunrise Tower SCOUT around and once again Minar will disappear LOOK AROUND twice then GET HELP. ENTER and PROCEED. When you hear approaching footsteps STAND, when the Dwarves approach PARLEY and TELL TRUTH. ACCEPT their offer and PROCEED twice. At the runes let Hurth EXAMINE RUNES and ENTER. Once inside you get lost no matter what you do so CAST FLARE this will reveal an upper level CAST ELEVATION at anyone and take the RIGHT tunnel, here you will find Minar is being held captive by Orcs. To get past the Orcs FIGHT and CAST MUD, now FLANK Orcs and select COMBAT untill all of the Orcs are dead. There is no way of stopping Hurth from being killed but at least you have obtained the Dwarf stone. RETURN. PROCEED and you will begin to encounter an evil force PROCEED again and it grows stronger PROCEED again and you realize something must be done so go BACK this will leave Praxix on his own, now CAST a TREMOR spell to seal off the tunnel. At the stairs go UP and go LEFT, at the chasm CAST ELEVATION at anybody and CAST WIND. It does not matter who go's UP or who stays just LOOK AROUND and PICK UP SPYGLASS now go DOWN. Go RIGHT and EXIT. Now to make matters worse Minar has managed to get bitten by a Nightfang of which the known cure is Westflake. SPLIT UP. The first character you control is Bergon who should RETURN immediately. The second character you control is Praxix who should PROCEED. At the stump CAST LIGHTNING and go DOWN and BACK. The last character you control is Tag who should follow the STREAM PATH where he will come upon an Elf to whom he should APPROACH. APPROACH again and talk to Elf. If you paid attention to Hurth's story of the Elves you should realize that what is required is to SPEAK ELVISH and say AGRITH B'RAN the Elf will now go to Minar's aid. FOLLOW PRAXIX ROUTE and go DOWN into the stump and PROCEED. Once again you will become lost but it is important for Esher to keep EXAMINING the walls untill he finds the Hawkbane, the same applies to Praxix finding some stones containing fire essence. Eventually find will find an exit which will take you to the spot where Tag met the Elf. Go to ELF HOME which is on fire, FOLLOW ELVES and CAST RAIN. The grateful Elves will give you the Elf stone, The story will now take you back to Astrix who will reveal that he possesses the Wizard stone. This now concludes the quest for the four. Now for the quest of the two. Take the NORTHERN ROUTE and ENTER the Dwarves caverns, CONFRONT the presence you encounter and you will discover it is Hurth the Dwarf (TELL STORY to discover how this was possible). Go DOWN and stay on THIS LEVEL, SCOUT around to discover the Orcs and go AROUND ORCS. At the gate allow Praxix to EXAMINE RUNES, the problem now seems quite perplexing but in reality is quite simple to solve, SPEAK and enter "lorem". Now go BACK and go PAST ORCS. To create a diversion CAST TREMOR and immediately CAST ELEVATION AT HIMSELF. PROCEED twice untill trapped and again CAST TREMOR, while Praxix is busy engage in COMBAT untill the spell takes effect. During the fight Bergon will have been injured and will die soon unless something can be done. MIX REAGENT with WATER ESSENCE and USE MIX on BERGON to restore his health. PROCEED and ENTER TUNNEL go LEFT and enter NEW MINE then ENTER CLEFT nothing here so go BACK, but wait is'nt that laughter you can hear better ENTER CLEFT again and EXAMINE WALLS and lo and behold a miner will appear. ASK MINER about ORCS and the MINE, and when it is possible allow Tag to PICK UP the RED ROCKS once this is done go BACK. BACK again and go RIGHT and take the CRUDE PATH, GET ADVICE and let HURTH go DOWN, at the bottom JUMP. LOOK AROUND and you should find a key CLIMB UP and go BACK. Take the ORNATE PATH and OPEN DOOR. EXAMINE VAULT and RUNES and then MIX REAGENT with FIRE ESSENCE and USE MIX on VAULT, EXAMINE COFFIN and PICK UP STONE. Go BACK twice to leave the caverns as there is nothing else to done here, the old mine and the stairs are false trails. And now to find the second stone. PROCEED and CAST FLARE to get past the trees, PROCEED again and Praxix will become separated from the party. When Praxix awakens he will be confronted by a talking tree, ASK TREE ABOUT PATHS and follow the MILKY WAY. EXAMINE MECHANISM which will reveal a hole, CAST GLOW on STAFF and go DOWN. Go RIGHT and EXAMINE DEVICE, note the runes. Go left to the pits and CAST WIND this will reveal each pit has a rune that corresponds to a rune on the device in the control room.( this does not apply to the third pit whose rune is obliterated). Save the game now because what is to follow differs from game to game and does not always go according to plan. Here follows what each pit contains:- 1st pit:- this is accessed by just going DOWN, in the pit are veins of earth and fire essence( essential as you have run out of it). You cannot mine these veins with magic. Go UP to return from pit. 2nd pit:- accessed only by ELEVATING yourself. Inside is a pick-axe, unfortunately you cannot escape from the pit. 3rd pit:- accessed only by ELEVATING yourself. This pit will only lead you to the outside, access to the pits is then impossible. The runes on the pits change from time to time so the determining of the third rune can only be known by first knowing the first and second runes. The solution to solving the pits should be as follows. Go to the control room and set the LEFT DIAL to the rune of the second pit and the RIGHT DIAL to the rune of the first pit, now PUSH BUTTON and go BACK TO THE PITS and go DOWN. If you have done it correctly you will find the pick-axe there, so PICK UP PICK-AXE and MINE ROCK. Now to escape, go back to the CONTROL ROOM and set the LEFT DIAL to the rune of the first pit and the RIGHT DIAL to the rune of the third pit, PUSH BUTTON and go BACK TO THE PITS, go DOWN and FOLLOW LIGHT. If you are having trouble finding the third rune it will require you to keep restoring the game and trying different combinations until you can escape. Alternatively you can simply escape by ELEVATING yourself down the third pit, this however will waste your air essence which is required in abundance latter in the game. Once leaving the mines CROSS bridge then PROCEED, go to TOWER and go UP there you will meet Umbar. ACCEPT Umbar's offer and go DOWN, Umbar will show you a secret room where you should MIX REAGENT with FIRE ESSENCE, USE MIX ON STONES, you now have the second stone in your possession. Go BACK and go to COURTYARD, here CAST FLARE. The flare attracts the attention of the remainder of the party who should now PROCEED. Hurth will now fall ill, allow ESHER to EXAMINE HURTH who will use the Hawkbane to cure him. PROCEED again and Bergon will be snared in a trap, you cannot free him so HIDE and FOLLOW ORCS. At their camp let Tag check the INVENTORY where an interesting discovery will be made, USE RED ROCK and this will lead you to Bergon, then RUN FOR IT. The story will now take it's own course leading to Praxix rescue and returning to Astrix tower. This now concludes the quest for the two. Now for the quest of the one. PROCEED from the Sunrise Tower and you find yourself on the coast where a large shadow is present, Hurth should EXAMINE SHADOW and then HIDE, this will prove impossible but Praxix can MIX AIR and WATER to create a fog in which you can hide. PROCEED and STAY in the cave, where you will once again meet Umbar. ASK UMBAR ABOUT MUDWARGS and GET ADVICE. When Umbar goes to sleep EXAMINE UMBARS SACK and MIX BLACK REAGENT with FIRE ESSENCE it is now safe to LEAVE. Enter the CURIO SHOP and LOOK AROUND, REPLY to the proprietor and BUY the GREY STONE, it's pretty expensive so TRADE SPYGLASS. PROCEED and enter TAVERN. ORDER MEAL and EXAMINE OTHER TABLE. CAST INVISIBITY and EAVESDROP on their whole conversation, your invisibility will wear off half way through the conversation but continue to EAVESDROP as they mention the name of a ship's captain who has not been bribed ( this name changes every game). EXIT tavern and go to the WHARF where the harbormaster will ask you if you have any particular captain in mind, say YES and enter the name you heard in the tavern, go to his ship which is usualy the ZEPHYR. TELL TRUTH to captain and ACCEPT his offer. Now go to the INN and CHECK IN. ACCEPT and then EXIT and CAMP OUT, this will lead you to being put in jail, but at least your party is intact. In the jail MIX GREY REAGENT with FIRE ESSENCE, CAST a TREMOR spell to summon sheriff and USE MIXTURE ON SHERIFF, who will now release you. On board the ship RELAX and follow the story until after the storm. You cannot climb the mast so CAST ELEVATION AT TAG and CAST WIND. Save the game here as the next part differs in all games. The Demon that arrives will knock Praxix out, so PICK UP PRAXIX POUCH and MIX ???? ( the mixture required to create a lightning storm is always different, but it does require three essences. The best way of finding the right combination is to first mix two essences together until you have created a small storm, you then know that all is required is to keep adding a pinch of a third powder until the right combination is acheived. If at first you don't succeed keep restoring the game until you do.) After CASTing the mixture at the Demon the game will follow it's own course until the finality of the game is reached. This then concludes the quest for the one. And herein concludes JOURNEY! THIS SOLUTION WAS ORIGINALLY TYPED FOR YOU BY VULCAN ------ And don't forget :- DON'T WASTE THOSE ESSENCES YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN THEY MIGHT COME IN HANDY! Jug complete docs by MERKWooD/MAAD Ported from ST to Amiga by Sewer Possum. Edited and corrected for Sewer Doc Disk Number 9 by Sewer Rat, 12/09/89. You are an interactive humanoid made of Titanium fleximetal and other organic materials - nicknamed 'JUG' becasue of you barrel chested profile which can transform into many different shapes and re-form instantaneously. Within the living core of the planet Spiraeus is a dealy virus that is causing its' brain to malfunction, and the inner sanctums to die. You must find and destroy the deadly tumor within the deepest parts of the planet. WARNING! The planet's immune system will see JUG as a hostile and alien body. You will be attacked by the defences of the very planet that you are trying to save! You must dare to enter the very heart of the planet, and destroy the invading mutants before they destroy you. Vital equipment will be transported into the planet along your proposed trajectory to help you with your quest, and fuel pods will be available throughout the game. Take heed, the problems will really start when you reach the scene of the disaster. Game Controls The game needs a joystick in port two, and, optionally, a mouse in port one. Joystick UP/LEFT/RIGHT - move the JUG in the given direction. DOWN - collect, activate, or select an object. FIRE BUTTON - fire the selected weapon. Mouse Move to select game options. Keyboard ESC - Abort current player's game. F7 - Decrease music volume. F8 - Increase music volume. F9 - Sound effects on/off. F10 - Pause game. Any other key will resume game. Starting A Game To start a game, press any key to display the 'Selection Screen', then use the mouse pointer to select the level of difficulty, and to select either the one or two player game. Game Levels As you progress through each zone, the level of difficulty gradually increases. This affects the number of aliens that appear on the screen, and how accurately they fire. If you are a beginner, start on level one, other- wise select a harder level, and you will be rewarded with much higher scores for every alien that is destroyed. Scoring Points are awarded for shooting aliens, and for collecting objects. As the difficulty increases so does the points for each alien killed as described above. Collecting Weapons The JUG is capable of carrying three different types of weapons. They are: *Plasma Fire - High energy plasma bolt. Advantages - Enough power to destroy most aliens with a single shot. Disadvantages - Low fire rate and speed, plasma bolt destroyed on collision with an alien. Awkward fire mounting. *Laser Cannon - Low energy laser beam. Advantages - High speed, single beam can hit more than one aline at a time. Disadvantages - Low power. *Smart Bomb - Zeo-quark particle emitter. Advantages - Will destroy every alien on the screen with no need to aim. Disadvantages - Constant replenishment needed as they are FOO (Fire Once Only) weapons. Collect weapons by moving onto the weapon, and then pulling down on the joystick. If the weapon is successfully retrieved the weapon status LED's will show the extra weapon. As you pick up more weapons of the same type, they become more powerful. NOTE: it is not possible to pick up a weapon if you are already carrying the maximum load for that weapon. Selecting Weapons To select a weapon you have picked up, simply pull down on the joystick. Collecting Fuel In order for JUG to fly, it needs fuel. This is slowly absorbed from the surrounding air, but should also be collected from the FUEL PODS as this will also reduce any damage to your ship. Collect fuel in the same way that you collect weapons. Teleports These can be used to get out of danger and to beam to a new section of the planet. All teleports are two way, and can be used as many times as you want. Teleports are indicated by blue spinning energy fields. To use a teleport, enter it then pull down on the joystick. Sector Keys The world is split up into zones. Each zone is split up into sectors. To get from one sector to another you must first find the keys used to dissolve the solid walls which prevent you from finishing the section. Collect keys the same way you collect weapons. Damage The JUG is capable of sustaining multiple hits without being destroyed. Damage can be reduced by collecting fuel. When the damage becomes critical, the damage lamp indicator starts to light. This means you can be hit 16 times, at most, before being destroyed. Radiation Certain areas within the planet are heavily contaminated with radiation. This radiation will not harm you directly, but it will slowly neutralize any fuel that you have. If all your fuel is neutralized your shields will slowly be damaged until the JUG is finally destroyed. Radiation zones are indicated by a flashing red background. These areas should only be entered if you have plenty of fuel. Status Panel During the game play the lower third of the display shows your status panel. These panels are slightly different for player one or player two, but basically follow these rules: Numeric Line: First Digit - Game level Second Digit - Zone Number Third Digit - Sector Number Next Six Digits - Score Last Digit - Number of lives Damage indicator - A vertical line of four red lamps. Key indicator - A pear shaped hole to the left. Weapon LED's - Three sets of three LED's. Fuel Bar - Large horizontal broken bar. KINGDOMS OF ENGLAND --------------------- A REALISM ENTERTAINMENT PRODUCTION PRESENTED BY FAIRLIGHT! Dox typed in over a 5 hour period during the cracking of the game by Strider & Excalibur of FairLight! Ported from Amiga to ST by Sewer Possum Thanks to Pirasoft/ACU for the orginal DOCS Edited and corrected by Sewer Rat The object of the game is to become the king of England, and this is accomplished by taking over provinces which makes your kingdom grow. There are 2 ways to win : winning by an alloted time or gaining the majority percentage of all the land ownership. These 2 ways are decided when the game is begun. The 'i' key can be used anywhere where there is animation to toggle between interlaced and non-interlaced mode. THERE ARE 4 PARTS TO THE GAME, EACH WITH ITS OWN SECTIONS. PART 1: MAP --- This map shows the whole of England broken up into 63 individual provinces. Each province can have a structure built in it, and each one can hold up to 4 armies. Each has a tax value which is the amount of silver that it brings in every turn. You can click and hold on the small map of England with the left mouse button and then move the mouse around and the big map will follow your movements. You can also use the bidirectional compass to move around more slowly. The 'done' button button is used to end each player's round and to calculate any battles. There are 4 structures; from tower, keep, small castle, to large castle. In each province, the completion level of the structure built there is represented by a different picture or if the structure has been attacked and is broken down. If there is no structure, the province shows ownership by showing a small flag of the owner's colors. In the small map, each province shows ownership by the owner's color only. If the province in the small map is colored black it means that the province is unowned. Clicking the left mouse button in the centre of each province brings up its respected data. Data includes the name, tax, value, terrain type, movement points, ownership, and number of personnel and catapults in each army. If you do not own a province, all data shows except the number of personnel and catapults of each army. A pennant is shown for each army there with the tip of the pennant being an approximation of the number of men in that army. The color of the pennant's tip represents the number of men in army and is broken down as follows: 0-59 men, WHITE; 60-99 men, LIGHT BLUE; 100-174 men, GREEN; 175-249 men, YELLOW; 250-374 men, ORANGE; and 375->, RED. If any prisoners are held within that province , this will also be shown only to the owner of that province. Clicking the right mouse button in the center of a province, brings up the options menu. The options shown are: ENTER TOWN, JOIN ARMIES, SPLIT ARMIES, and MOVE ARMY. By clicking on the words of each command with the left mouse button, the command is executed. COMMANDS: JOIN ARMY - Allows you to join 2 armies into 1. This allows you to move more armies into a province. Click with the left mouse button to the army to join from and then the army to join to. SPLIT ARMIES - Allows you to take an army and split it up. You first choose the army you want to split, and the click on an open space where the new army to be formed will be put. Clicking the left mouse button on the numbers will move 1 man or catapult between the 2 armies. Clicking the right mouse button will move 10 men or 10 catapults. ENTER TOWN - Allows you to hire men, purchase catapults, and build/improve structure. You must have at least a full tower (25 structure points) in that province to hire men or purchase catapults. The options in the town are: HIRE MEN, PURCHASE CATAPULTS, and BUILD/IMPROVE STRUCTURE. HIRE MEN & PURCHASE CATAPULTS - The costs are printed on the left side, with the type of men or catapults in the center, and the total hired or purchased on the right. Clicking the left mouse button over the number on the right will hire or purchase 1. Clicking the right mouse button will hire or purchase 10. You can only purchase 1 catapult at a time. BUILD/IMPROVE STURCTURE - You can build or improve the structure by purchasing structure points. Each point costs 5 silver. You can only build or improve a structure between the spring and fall fair(light!!!!!). MOVING ARMY - Allows you to move an army. To move an army, click in the province with the army to move with the right mouse button. Then click the left mouse button on the army to move (the text word) and then in the middle of the province you want it to move to. Once an army is moved you can't hire men for, purchase catapults for, or split or join that army. If the province you move to isn't owned by you, a pennant is shown on the border between the 2 provinces. If you move another army to the same province, both armies are joined into 1. If you don't remember how many men are moving into a province, note the pennant tip. If you want to take back a move, click the right mouse button in the province with the army to move back, click the left mouse button on the army to move back (if an army is about to enter another province, it will be highlighted in red with 2 stars next to it on the left), and then click the province where it first came from. Each army has 5 movement points with the start of the round and each point is used up as move through different provinces. When you have completed all your moves and are done with your round, you exit the menu on the bottom by hitting EXIT word with the left mouse button and click the right mouse button on the DONE gadget. PART 2: BATTLE ------ In battle, each man type (archers,soldiers,knights, and rangers) has different fighting abilities which correspond to fight points. The fight points are used to determine the victor of each battle. The army is affected by the different kinds of weather, so as the weather gets worse, the fight points go down. Weather has full effect on the attacker of a battle, but only 2/3 effect on the defender since the defender doesn't have to move his forces. There are 2 fight point bonuses which can be obtained. One way is for every 25 men you have more than your opponent (i.e. your 200 men against his 25) gives you a 4% bonus. Another way is for every 5 structure points you have, when an opponent attack your structure, you get a bonus of 1% added to your defending armies' fight points. Example: Your castle has 50 structure points, you get an extra 10% added. The more structure bonus you get, the better your catapult accuracy. Fight points are as follows: ATTACKING - Soldiers 1, Crossbowmen 2, Archers 3, Knights 7 and Rangers 3. DEFENDING - Soldiers 2, Crossbowmen 3, Archers 4, Knights 7 and Rangers 5. Terrain type and weather has an effect on both attackers and defenders. If you have 1 ranger for every 25 men in your army, then the effect of terrain is nullified otherwise, mountain terrain has a -10% effect, rolling hills -5%, and lowlands 0%. Weather effects are as follows: Men Catapults Clear and sunny 0 0 T-storms and lightning -30 -50 Thunderstorms -15 -30 Light fog -4 -20 Thick fog -15 -40 Rain -10 -15 Rain and lightning -20 -25 Overcast 0 0 Prestige is the moral of your kingdom. Prestige starts out as zero and for each battle you win, it goes up by 1 point. Losing a battle, minuses 1 point. Eliminating another player from the game gives you 5 points. Every 2 weeks, (the end of a turn) is brought towards zero (plus 1, or minus 1) whether or not it is positive or negative. Prestige can be a factor in whether or not you can win an evenly matched battle. The harder your men fight, the better the chance that you will win. There are 2 types of battle, QUICK and DETAIL. In quick battle you can see the battle quickly without the blood'n guts (who would like that?); in detail you can watch the battle blow by blow(job). QUICK BATTLE: Quick battle shows the number of men, total fight points, catapults, and what the catapults are currently aiming at. It also shows a picture of the structure (if any) for the defender and it's structure points. To aim catapults during battle use the '1' key to aim at the men, '2' key to aim at the castle, and '3' key to aim at the defender's catapult. These keys are for the attacker only (the keyboard keys are for the attacker, keypad keys are for the defender). The defender uses the '2' and '3' keys on the keypad ('2' to aim at the men, '3' to aim at the attacker's catapults). Other options during battle are the '8' key for both the attacker and the defender (keyboard for attacker and keypad for defender) to retreat. You can only retreat to a neighbouring province you own. The '9' key (keypad) for the defender to surrender. (You can rescue your men later; remember surrending is better than dying when there's nowhere to retreat to.) Surrendered men are imprisoned and can only be retrieved by rescuing them. HINT!: If you surrender, remember where you did so! To continue the quick battle fight, click the left mouse button. This allows you to watch the action every round, which gives you a chance to aim catapults at different targets and time to retreat or surrender. The catapults fire every other round. If both defender and attacker are simultaneously killed, the defender retains ownership of the province. If a human opponent is involved in a battle with the computer, the conflict will be resolved by the use of the quick battle method. If two human opponents are involved in battle, they have the choice of either quick or detailed battle. When you see 'GIVE ORDERS TO CONTINUE' this means click the left mouse button to continue. DETAIL BATTLE: When you select detail battle, the attacker and defender have to set up their army and catapult units for battle. This ability lets you make your own strategy other that letting the armies fight head to head as in quick battle. To accomplish this, understanding the BATTLE SETUP is a must. You can only go into detail battle if the defender has a keep, small castle or a large castle. BATTLE SETUP: Underneath the words OVERALL ARMY TOTALS (in light blue) are: TOTAL # RESERVE, PRESTG, WETHR, ATT/DEF, LAND & SPECIAL, FIGHT VAL.EA, FIGHT PTS.EA TOTAL, AVE FPT. TOTAL # RESERVE - This is the total number of personnel in reserve (not assigned to a unit). Each number has it's own personnel type, (Soldiers,Crossbowmen etc...). Look to the right of each number and you will find which type of personnel this number belongs to. PRESTG - This is the prestige of your men. This number bases itself on the number of battles you have won or lost. You only get a bonus if your prestige is higher than your opponent's; if not, your percentage will be zero. Prestige is constant with all your men, not individuals. In other words, the archers can't be feeling better than the knights. WETHR - This is the weather effect percentage. If the weather is clear and sunny, the weather bonus is nullified (a great day for an attack!). The worse the weather is, the worser your army will fight, and the better the chances are of losing the battle. Nobody likes to fight in thunderstorms and lightning (a sword can act as a lightning rod). ATT/DEF - This is the bonus for outnumbering your opponent. If you outnumber your opponent, the better your chances are for winning, but this bonus changes as the battle goes on. LAND&SPECIAL - This is the bonus that goes to the defender. If you have one ranger for every 25 men in your army, the bonus is nullified for the defender. If you don't have a ranger for every 25 men your chances of attack on a castle in a mountain area are lessened, but on an attack on a castle in flatlands, rangers aren't needed. FIGHT VAL.EA - This is the fight value that each personnel type has. This is the value that each man has in battle. This is different from fight points in that fight value is factor of how good a personnel will fight in battle, and fight points are the factor in which army is the strongest before any modifiers such as prestige, weather, etc.... FIGHT PTS EA.TOTAL - This is the fight points of all your personnel type AFTER the modifiers have been added into the battle. AVE FPT - This is the average number of all your fight points added together from all the personnel. On the bottom half of the screen, the bonus headings, (prestige, weather, etc) are only different for the catapult units. The heading TOTAL #.MEN EA. give you the figure of each personnel type in that unit. The top half of the screen is the number of personnel in reserve, and the bottom half of the screen are the detailed figures of men and catapults being used. There are 2 types of individual units: ARMY & CATAPULT. There can be only 10 catapult units and 10 army units. To switch between the two units use the orange arrow gadget in the middle red bar. To switch between the 1-10 units of either the army or catapult units use the orange + or - gadget. For catapult units use the left mouse button on the purple + or - gadget to add or subtract # of catapults each unit will use. You can't add men to a catapult unit, each catapult has it's own operators, therefore you don't need a soldier or archer to operate it. The more units you have, the better the chances are that your opponent won't take out all your catapults in 1 shot even if you only have 1 catapult in each unit. The # of your catapult units (1-10) will be on the red square next to the green DONE gadget. Use the orange +/- gadget to flip through 1-10 units. Don't click the green DONE gadget just yet. Now the army units have to be done. To add men to the units from the reserves, use the purple +/- gadgets. A good selection of every type of personnel in each unit works better than just 1 type of personnel in a unit, but keep all your units even. Keeping your units even in numbers protects your catapults and your chances of winning the battle. The number of your army unit (1-10) will be shown on the red square next to the green DONE gadget. Use the orange +/- gadget to flip through 1-10 units. Catapults can only be moved into catapult units, and personnel can only be moved into army units. When you're finished moving all your men and catapults units, click on the green DONE gadget. When the attacker is done with setting up his units, the defender does his. The same steps are used to set up his units. You can set up the units before the catapults or vice versa. When both players have hit the green DONE gadget, the battle placement screen is brought up. In the battle placement screen, the attacker will set his units into position first. The screen is a 40*40 square grid with a structure in the middle. There are 10 buttons numbered 1-10, one for each of the units. To switch between the catapult and army units, click the left mouse button on the picture of the soldier or the catapult. To place a unit, make sure that the unit you are placing has the correct picture of it. The catapult picture is for catapult units and soldier picture is for army units. Choose a unit (1-10) by clicking on the unit number which will be highlighted in red. Then click in any of the light green squares that are outside the structure. You will now see a small representation of the unit. After you have placed the unit, the number of the unit will turn bright orange. This tells you that the unit is placed. You can move units which you have misplaced by clicking the left mouse button on the unit number, which is bright orange. The number will turn red again, you can then place the unit. You can scroll around the grid by using the directional arrows in the lower right-hand part of the screen. Below the arrows shows the name of the player which is currently placing his units and above the arrows is the number of men in the army unit if an army unit is being placed. When the attacker is finished placing his units, the defender follows the same steps and placing his units with the only difference that when placing catapult units, he will only be able to place them only within the structure's walls. A small picture of a catapult on a tower will be shown for the defender's catapult units. The defender's men can be placed anywhere outside the structure, but most likely he should place them next to the attacker's units. When both attacker and defender have completed placements of both units, the battle begins (FINALLY!). Keys for the attacker during battle are as follows: ESC for retreat, 1-0 (on keyboard) to find out info about the respective units (hit RETURN to toggle between catapult and army units). For the defender during battle, the 1-0 (on keypad) to find out info about the respective units (hit ENTER to toggle between catapult and army units). You can bring up stats for a particular unit by hitting the number of the unit once, hitting the number twice centers on that unit so you can watch it, hitting it three times lets you move the unit using the mouse by holding down the right mouse button and moving in the desired direction for the attacker. The colors represented in the miniature overhead view of the battlefield are as follows: Bright Red - Attacker's catapult units, Dark Red - Attacker's catapults, Bright Yellow - Defender's catapults units, and Brown for the defender's catapults. PART THREE: ARCHERY ------- There are 2 archery competitions. These occur twice a year, during the spring and fall fair. Winning these competitions gives the following prizes of 75 silver for 1st place, 35 silver for 2nd, and 10 silver for 3rd place. The first place winner of the event will have his prestige go up 5 units, and the second finisher gains 1. PART FOUR: RESCUE ------ When you attack a province and it has prisoners in it, you're asked if you want to rescue them. If you decide to do so, you won't attack the province. Night falls. The raider is controlled by the mouse, and wherever the pointer is moved, the raider responds. The object is to make it into the dungeon and rescue your men. This is accomplished by defeating any guards you might encounter and getting to the right hand part of the screen. To thrust the sword, click the left mouse button; to swing the sword click the right mouse button. You can also block your opponent's attack by moving the pointer underneath the feet of the raider, (the raider will kneel) and holding the right mouse button. Clicking the left mouse button while the raider is kneeling will make the raider thrust his sword. The moves are as follows: Fire - Thrust, Up+fire - Chop, Down+fire - thrust downward, lower right - block. You will know when you're close to your goal when you're in the dungeon and see the jail cells. EXTRAS ------ Structures points are the defensive strngth of your tower, keep or castle. You can have between 1-200 structure points at a cost of 5 silver each. These are bought in town. Not only do you need structures for defensive capabilities, you also need them to attract men for recruiting and purchasing catapults. Structures go up in levels of 25 points for a full tower, 75 for a full keep, 125 for a full small castle, and 175 for a full large castle. You can also build up your current structure uf you don't have the silver to pay from 25 to 75 points; you can have 50 points for an in-between tower and keep. Structures can only be built/improved between the spring fair and the fall fair. When structures are built, the level of completion is shown on the main scrolling map. Ownership of a province with a structure in it will show ownership in the form of a flag flying the owner's colors on the structure. THE END ........ These DOCS are brought to you by Sewer Software in Doc Disk 9. They were edited by Sewer Rat. KULT-THE STORY -------------- The central theme of this is for you to find and rescue your girlfriend Sci-fi who has dissappeared under mysterious circumstances. But for you to rescue her you must enter the labyrinth beneath the city, which is easier said than done as you can only enter them from a point that is controlled by the Protozorp, which in turn can only be entered once you have achieved your five skulls. The skulls are to be found in five seperate rooms and an object is required to solve the five problems. Once each room is solved the skull is taken to a Protozorp and the object can be traded in for another object. KULT-GAME STRUCTURE ------------------- The game is controlled by using the mouse to highlight an object or structure and pressing the mouse button, this will display a brain which gives you the available commands that can be used on that object. Icons along the right of the screen can also be accessed by the mouse, the most important of these being the Psi Powers that are available to you. In the solution that follows i will display the commands in BOLD TYPE and the locations in the following manner "----------". KULT-THE SOLUTION ----------------- The rooms can be solved in any order as long as the room called "IN THE SCORPIONS PRESSENCE" is the last to solved. The game starts in the "MASTER'S ORBIT" where he will give you one of the objects. THE TWINS:- object needed GOBLET. Once in "THE TWINS" go to "THE SOURCE" and INSPECT the fountain this will reveal a switch in the eye, PRESS THE EYE, this will fill the fountain. Highlight icon marked POSSESSIONS and click on the goblet select FILL GOBLET and go back to "THE TWINS". OPEN both serpents and select the goblet from the possessions, EMPTY the goblet in the left serpent. A die now appears which can be obtained by highlighting the icon marked OBJECTS IN THE ROOM, click on the die and TAKE, it now goes to possessions. Select die and PUT IN the right serpent you can now go to "WHO WILL BE SAVED". If there is a way of solving the riddle of the hands i am not aware of it so a bit of trial and error is needed to complete the ordeal. Highlight the Serpent's head and PRESS, now go to "THE SOURCE". You will notice the slab in front of the fountain is now split up into six cubes the skull you are seeking is under one of them (it changes fromm game to game) LIFT cube# to obtain it. It would be adviseable to save the game before lifting the slabs as a wrong choice means death. After obtaining the skull exit via "THE RING" and follow the "PASSAGE" untill you reach a side passage leading to "THE RETURN" and on to "THE MASTER'S ORBIT". GIVE skull to Protozorp who is standing beneath the Trader. You can now exchange the goblet for another object. This is done by highlighting the trader and selecting TRADE ITEM, select both the object you wish to trade and the item you wish to have. (BE WARNED the trader will use the old shell game trick to hide the skull and a wrong choice will mean that you lose, thus meaning your efforts have been in vain. So it would be adviseable to once again save the game before trading.) THE WALL:- object needed DAGGER. Click on zone 3 then zone 2 to close the barrier then enter either of the doors. Inside you should CLIMB ON the step and take the dagger from Possessions. Click on dagger and PUT IN slot. The dagger will now be in objects in the room, click on dagger again and TAKE it. Take the side "PASSAGE" to reach the "DEAD END", select the deep cavity and STICK YOUR HAND IN, you now have a skull. Retrace your steps until you can reach the "MASTER'S ORBIT". GIVE skull to the Protozorp, but do not trade. THE NOOSE:- object needed NONE (however the lantern can be used if desired). Once you entered "THE NOOSE" use Solar Eyes from Psi Powers to obtain light. Use Sticky Fingers from Psi Powers to reach the platform and PUSH the lever. Once the body is hanging a hollow becomes visible, INSPECT the hollow to obtain another skull. TAKE the lower left rope. Return to the "MASTER'S ORBIT" and GIVE skull, do not trade. DE PROFUNDIS:- object needed ROPE. Once you have entered here use the Wait icon untill a vertical column appears. Select rope from possesions and LASSO the column, Wait for the granite monster to appear and JUMP ON IT. TAKE the rope from objects in the room and wait again untill the monster carries you to the other side, where you will obtain another skull. Go to the "MASTER'S ORBIT" GIVE skull and trade for the stone spider. IN THE SCORPIONS PRESSENCE:- object needed STONE SPIDER. PRAY at the statue and enter the "THE WEB". Click on the web and CRAWL. GIVE the stone fly to the Mistress, but REFUSE to kiss her. GIVE FLY TO BLUE SPIDER and you will be given possession of the red spider, return to the "IN THE SCORPIONS PRESSENCE". Select the red spider and PUT IN opened mouth, a trapdoor will now open. PASS through the trapdoor to receive another skull. Return to the "MASTER'S ORBIT" and GIVE skull. After a speech by the Master of Ordeals you will be given an egg. Follow "THE RING" untill you come across a passage guarded by a Protozorp, SHOW egg to gain access and go to "THE CONCOURSE". Use Brainwarp on Protozorp and take the "PASSAGE" he is guarding. Follow passage untill you reach the Toad's Head and INSPECT it to reveal an eye, PRESS eye to go to "A HIDDEN PLACE" and use solar eyes. Take the rope and LASSO the lever and PASS-THROUGH the trap door. Follow the "GALLERY'S" untill you encounter Ash and Normajeen in the "CAVERN". TALK to them and TELL TRUTH, after they have finished speaking use zone scan to reveal a slab. LIFT slab and TAKE both the flask and the bean. Follow the left passage and go through the trap-door to enter the "RECTORY". Go to the "THRESHOLD OF TRUTH" where a priestess will present, you will have no option but to ATTACK her. Select the egg and PUT IN opened mouth to gain access to "THE SCRIPTURES". INSPECT the lectern and use psi shift to obtain the statuette in the upper left corner. Go through the door to re-enter "THE THRESHOLD OF TRUTH" and go to "IN THE PRESSECE OF GOD" and then to the "PLACATING THE POWERS" where Saura and a priestess are sacrificing a Deivo. ATTACK the priestess and brainwarp Saura whom you should then GIVE FLASK TO DRINK. She will now reveal that she is actually Sci-fi and will explain what happened to herself. (If things go wrong at this stage kill Saura and GIVE BEAN EAT, she will now relive and you can have another attempt to GIVE FLASK TO DRINK). TAKE sacrificial dagger and go to "IN THE PRESSENCE OF GOD" Sci-fi and the monkey will follow you. Go to "SAURA'S RESPOSE" and select statuette and PUT IN niche, a tunnel is now revealed, click on monkey and PUT IN TUNNEL, return to "IN THE PRESSECE OF GOD" where the starry wall should lift. Enter the "BIRTH OF A DIVINE RACE" and wait, two aliens will enter from a concealed trapdoor who are intent upon your death. Select psi powers and use extreme violence to kill the first alien, Qriich the parasite will be incapacitated momentarily and the second alien will capture Sci-fi. Brainwarp Harssk where upon Qriich will possess his mind, quickly psi shift the trapdoor to close it. Quiich's attention will be diverted and you can THROW the sacrificial dagger at Harssk to kill him. And that unfortunately ends the game, the story concludes by telling you what the final outcome is. Oh well you live happily ever after and you do have a nice new flying saucer to play with. Trouble is that Spawn-o matic looked like it might have been fun to mess around with.... SOLUTION TYPED FOR YOU BY VULCAN -------------------------------- Thanks once again must go to THE ANIMAL HOUSE for typing yet another largish (30K) doc. See the accompanying picture on this disk (Sewer Doc Disk Number 9) for a comprehensive map. This file was edited for Doc Disk usage by Sewer Rat. FALCON F-16 MISSION DISK 1 1. Introduction. When the original 'Falcon' was released in 1987, we at Spectrum Holobyte set out to produce the most accurate flight simulator around. when you fly 'Falcon' you get a taste of what it's like to sit in the 'office' of one of the world's superla- tive modern fighter jets. However, with success comes another load of problems. Everyone kept telling us they thought the game was superb but couldn't we just change this feature or that feature... If we did everything people had asked us for, the likelihood is that we'd have never produced another program ever. Originally, the idea had been to add value to the game by supplying additional mission disks. Whilst this seems a good idea to start with, things soon got out of hand and it became obvious that what we were producing was virtually an entirely new game. Although the game is still recognisable, we hope that the improvements we've made will keep 'Falcon' fans happy for another year or so. LOADING The new mission disk replaces 'Falcon' disk one. Boot the new mission disk and then follow the screen prompts inserting 'Falcon' disk 2 when requested.. (If you have the original!!) 2. Missions, The key difference between the new missions and those found in the original 'Falcon' disk is the overall mission framework. MISSION. Operation Grandslam. OBJECTIVE: Total defeat of the enemy forces by destroying all the enemy industrial and ground assets. Such major damage to its manufacturing industry will force the enemy to negotiate on peace terms and halt its aggressive intentions towards the country whose freedom you are protecting. The objective is not to invade and subjugate the hostile territory but merely to destroy the enemy's offensive potential and force him to recognise that further hostile acts would be fruitless. The fate of the nation is in your hands. To complete this objective, your 'Falcon' fighter will be based at a forward airfield on the edge of enemy territory. This airfield, whilst adequately defended against air attack is very vulnerable to enemy ground forces. You must prevent the enemy forces from over running the base, but at the same time, attack the enemy industrial installations and eventually destroy all such installations. Beware, if enemy ground forces reach the airfield, you will be taken prisoner and possibly executed for 'war crimes'. Whilst every enemy target destroyed will contribute towards success in Operation Grandslam, just as in the original 'Falcon', points are awarded for destroying specific targets depending on which mission has been selected. Here is a list of the missions you can undertake and hazards you are likely to face. See map for location of the following mission targets; The map squares should be numbered as follows: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 use this as the references... 1. Rolling Thunder OBJECTIVE: Destroy at least three tanks WAYPOINTS: D1 EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM - 65B Maverick Mk84 2000lb bomb. MAP REFERENCE: Sector 7. The tanks will move from the south side of the lake N to the airbase in a SW direction towards the airbase. The T-80 tank is immune to your 30mm cannon, so be careful to preserve your ordenance. It is absolutely vital to kill all the tanks with one mission in order to allow you to get on with the vital strategic missions on which the operation depends in the knowledge that you will have an airfield to return to. As the tanks get nearer your airfield, you will not be distracted by enemy fighters which are driven away by the air defence umbrella close to your airfield. You will be warned when the tanks are approaching dangerously close to your airfield. The F-16 map display will not indicate whether there are any active enemy tanks. However, once you get airbourne you will soon find out by the pyrotechnics of the land battle as the T-80's fight their way forward. 2. Water Sports. OBJECTIVE: Destroy at least three landing craft WAYPOINT: D2 EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65b Maverick Mk 84 2000lb Bomb 30mm Cannon MAP REFERENCE: Sector 7. Although this mission can be easily combined with "Rolling Thunder" in the interest of overall strategic requirements, once the immediate threat to the airfield has been removed by taking out the tanks, the landing craft should be the next target. Here the cannon comes into its own with strafing runs over the lake. The landing craft move SW from one side of the lake to the other. Once at the SW shore, the landing craft will unload a tank. Once a landing craft has reached the shore, it will remain stationary and hence far easier to find and hit; but then again, it will have already delivered its cargo and done its job. You will be informed when the landing craft reach the lake shore. 3. Truck Interdiction. OBJECTIVE: Destroy the truck convoy. WAYPOINT: None. EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65B Maverick Mk84 2000lb Bomb 30mm Cannon. MAP REFERENCE: Sectors 1 and 4. The truck convoy supplies the enemy's attempts to attack the airfield. Knocking out the convoy will provide some respite from the onslaught of landing craft and tanks. The trucks start out on the road in the north of enemy territory. The trucks travel west and then turn due south over a river bridge and offload their supplies where the road ends near the lake. Once you've found them, they should be a piece of cake but it's very easy to louse up a simple mission like this by concentrating to hard on looking for the trucks and falling to a SAM or a MIG because you just weren't awake. Cut down relative motion by attacking from straight behind the convoy. You will be informed when the trucks reach the bridge which will at least narrow down your search area. Once the truck convoy reaches its destination, the ground forces will be resupplied and another convoy will start out at the start of the next mission. 4. Train Interdiction. OBJECTIVE: Destroy train. WAYPOINT: D4, D5. EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65 Maverick Mk84 2000lb Bomb 30mm Cannon MAP REFERENCE: Sectors 3, 6, 8 and 9. Train busting is as old as ground attack. But from Sopwith Pups to F-16s the problems are the same: find it and then destroy a fast moving target. What's worse, this train is a pretty tough cookie and will not worry if you belt a few holes in the track. You will also have to destroy each part of the train individually, it's no good just taking out the first truck and expecting the rest of it to grind to a halt. On the other hand, most of the track is mercifully free of SAM missile sites so you'll only have the MIGs to worry about. Like the truck convoy, knocking the train out will slow down enemy efforts to resupply its front line troops and so take the pressure off the airfield and allow you to get on with longer range missions. Ground control will inform you when the train crosses the river bridge. Like the trucks, another train will start as soon as one reaches its destination. Apart from the tanks themselves, these supply convoys have to be near the top of your agenda. If too many of these get through, you are going to be fighting a loosing battle against a never ending stream of tanks and landing craft. 5. Wild Weasel. OBJECTIVE: Destroy at least four SAM sites. WAYPOINTS: Various: EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65B Maverick Mk 84 2000lb Bomb 30mm CANNON MAP REFERENCE: All. This mission is a useful prelude to all the remaining missions. Most of the strategic objectives are guarded by SAM sites. Carrying the ordenance to deal with the SAM sites (including a jamming pod if you can get one) means that it is usually not practical to take out the SAM sites and the strategic target with the same weapon load, so take out the SAM sites you need before hand and then come back before they are repaired for a clear run at the target. 6. Dragon Jaw. OBJECTIVE: Destroy road bridge. WAYPOINT: D7 EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65 Maverick Mk84 2000lb Bomb MAP REFERENCE: Sector 1 Why mess around trying to find the truck convoy when a much simpler solution to the problem is to take out the bridge the convoy has to cross? There is a little problem of the SAM sites either side of the road leading to the bridge, so there might be a case for driving hard up the west edge of the map and then pulling round to take the bridge from behind. The Maverick is possibly the weapon of choice here. With such a nice large single target like this, it may be possible to take it out without sacrificing too much height or speed thus reducing your vulnerability to MIGs and SAMs. Once the bridge is out, the trucks mill about in the vicinity of the bridge and thus become sitting ducks for future missions. 7. Dragon Tail. OBJECTIVE: Destroy the railway bridge. WAYPOINT: D8 EFFECTIVE WEAPON: Mk84 2000lb Bomb MAP REFERENCE: Sector 9. This big, solidly constructed railbridge has been a real problem for high command for some time. High level strategic bombing has failed top shift it and light attack with A-10s and AV-8B Jump Jets have just bounced off it. So what is required is a couple of well placed 2000 pounders around the main span. Once again, this is a much more permanent way of stopping supplies than taking out the train. The enemy has always got another train, the bridge will take some time to repair. A high precision dive bomb run is possibly the optimum attack technique. Fortunately there aren't any adjacent SAM sites, so you should get a clear run at the target. However, a heavy warload is going to make you a sitting duck for the MIGs. So get there fast at high level on full burner, drop your load and then look around for bandits. 8. POL Mission. OBJECTIVE: Destroy all three fuel tanks at the oil refinery. WAYPOINT: D9 EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65b Maverick Mk 84 2000lb Bomb 30mm Cannon MAP REFERENCE: Sector 3. This is one of the trickiest missions of the lot. The three targets are not arranged in a line so you are very likely to need two passes at the target. Naturally enough, there are no less than four SAM sites in the vicinity - two very close indeed. It is also the target deepest in enemy territory so you are likely to have to fight your way in and out. There are also other SAM sites en-route, so you'll have to choose yuur route very careful- ly. Still keen to volunteer? Goodluck! Naturally, fuel supplies are vital to every aspect of the enemy effort, from supplying fuel for fighters to keeping the tanks rolling to the front so taking out this target will really hurt them 9. Blue Bandit. OBJECTIVE: Destroy enemy landing strip. WAYPOINT: D10 EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: Durandel anti-runway bomb MAP REFERENCE: 3 Sorting out MIG-29s when they get into the air can be a tricky problem. so the simple solution is to stop them getting there. Whilst a raid on the enemy airfield will not directly affect your ultimate objective, it will restrict enemy air activity and thus make your life a whole lot more peaceful. The air strip is only out of action when both runways have been cratered, although one Durandel at the intersection will do the trick. Watch out for the SAM sites just to the south of the airfield, it is definitely good advice to take these out first. Intelligence believes that this airfield may well be the test site for a new experimental enemy aircraft. This aircraft uses stolen US Stealth technology. It is thus unlikely to be possible to detect with radar and IR suppression may make it immune to your winders. So use that good old standby the Mk1 eyeball to find it and then get some practice with your deflec- tion shooting. As far as intelligence is aware, the experimental, fighter is unarmed; despite this, be careful, S-2 does not know everything. 10. Sledge Hammer. OBJECTIVE: Shut down the tank factory by destroying any two buildings. WAYPOINT: D11. EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65b Maverick. Mk84 2000lb Bomb. MAP REFERENCE: Sector 9. Once the two SAM sites just to the west of the factory have been dealt with, this one should be high on your list of candidates for early destruction. Once this one is out if the way, you have effectively ended the enemy threat to your airfield. Obviously the enemy will seek to repair it as rapidly as possible, so it's worth a return trip every now and then. 11. Thunderbolt. OBJECTIVE: Shutdown the power station by destroying any two of the cooling towers. WAYPOINT: D12 EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65b Maverick Mk84 2000lb Bomb. MAP REFERENCE: 2. Once you get to it, this is a reasonably easy target. It's easy to find just downstream from a river junction and near some mountains. There are also none of those irksome SAM sites to worry about. Getting their is another matter. It's a question of trying to thread your way between the SAM sites in the swamp and those around the airfield. Destroying the power station will halt all production throughout the enemy industrial region until the power is brought back on line. Such a vital target is bound to be well defended by enemy air assets so expect a bumpy ride. 12. Flaming Dart. OBJECTIVE: Shutdown the arsenal by destroying any two of the four buildings, WAYPOINT: D13 EFFECTIVE WEAPONS: AGM-65B Maverick Mk84 2000lb BOMB 30mm Cannon MAP REFERENCE: Sector 1. The simplest approach to this is to fly right up the edge of the map at cruising altitude. Then, once you reach the road at the top of the map, turn and dive on the target. With a little luck, you can hit the target and be gone before they know what's hit them. It is a compact, small target area so the Mavericks definitely look like the best bet. Only go with the 2000 pounders if the crew chief lets you down, yuu like really big bomb craters or your a plain masochist who likes humping heavy weapon loads for miles over enemy territory. Once again, destruction of this target will halt flow of material to the front and buy you valuable time. 3. STRATEGY. Initially the key is survival. On your first sortie, you should aim to destroy the tanks with Mavericks and then destroy the landing craft with any left over Mavericks and the cannon. Possibly the second mission should aim at one of the bridges. After that, you've got a bit of a breathing space from the immediate threat of loosing the game and you can start to look at the strategic options. The enemy tank stockpile is resupplied as soon as the landing craft beach. So if you allow all three landing craft to beach, you can expect a steady stream of tanks to attack your airfield for the next few missions. Therefore the first flight is absolutely vital to success or failure. Blow it and you are likely to be in for a very hard fight indeed. If you "buy the farm" the positions of all the enemy units are reset. If you want to continue from where you left off, you can choose a pilot with the same name. The scenario continues from where you left off, but obviously the new pilot starts off from zero as far as points and medals go. If, on the other hand, the scenario is going badly, if a different pilot is chosen from the duty roster, the scenario will start from scratch. Am important point to bear in mind is how long the various targets stay destroyed once hit. OBJECT. No. OF MISSIONS THAT THE OBJECTS REMAIN DESTROYED bridges 5 factories 5 SAM sites 3 trains 3 runways 2 trucks 2 landing craft 1 tanks 1 From this list, it can be seen that ultimate victory can be obtained by merely by picking off one of the four key industrial sites each mission. But obviously should one mission fail, you could be faced with the factories repairing themselves just as quickly as you destroy them. Don't forget, even if you do cause a total industrial shutdown, you could still loose if the enemy overrun the airfield using the supplies that are in the pipeline. After the airfield has been run over and you have been captured, the scenario will be reset fir you to have another go. If you manage to achieve enemy industrial shutdown when flying at Major level or above, you will receive the highest US Military decoration, the Congressional Medal of Honour. 4. AWARDS AND POINTS. Ribbons. Rolling Thunder 1 Water Sports 2 Truck Interdiction 2 Train Interdiction 3 Wild Weasel 4 Dragon Jaw 6 Dragon Tail 10 POL Mission 10 Blue Bandit 12 Sledge Hammer 12 Thunderbolt 15 Flaming Dart 15 Medals Purple Heart Injured in action. DFC Fly at major level or higher and; 1. Successfully complete a mission which scores more than 3 points without an ALQ-131 jamming pod. or 2. Successfully complete a mission which scores higher than 3 points and destroy two MIG's. Silver Star Fly at major level or higher and; 1. Successfully complete a mission which scores more than 6 points and destroy two MIG's. or 2. Destroy four or more MIG's. AFC As Silver Star but flying at Lieutenant Colonel or Colonel level. Medal Of Honour. Fly at major level or higher and cause enemy industrial shutdown. Points scoring for Mig kills, bomb hits, rank multiples, bonuses and medals remain the same as the original "Falcon" game. 5. ENHANCEMENTS Apart from a lot of detail and graphic changes, one of the major changes has been to make landing easier. Two changes have been made. Firstly, enemy MIG's will not attack you all the way to your airfield. This is due to the fear of being shot down by the airfield air defences. The player can safely use the ILS on runway 270 without fear of nasty surprises. The landing envelope is also slightly kinder. The player should still follow all the advice given on landing in the original "Falcon" manual but slight variation from this formula should not result in a crash. A major enhancement is the appearance of enemy MIG 29s. The scenery is now firmly set in the mid eighties with the weapons and the adversaries around at the time. The aircraft will automatically level itself after a minor banking manoeuver, although this can be toggled off using 'Ctrl Z' if you would like to use the original "Falcon" controls. The Mavericks now give a correct "zoom" image on the pilots head down display which aids target identification at long range. In general, we hope that the player notices a number of slight improvements to the simulation; we have attempted to rectify some of the slight problems that occurred in the original Falcon and also to make improvements where we could. Key 'Z' toggles auto-centering on/off - auto-centering works after minor stick action, keys 'Control C' drops centreline payload, landing has been improved so as to ease the landing of damaged aircraft, radar systems and data have been improved allowing Full Behind Visual Range Combat to be practised, and full dive-bombing has been introduced. Also, pilots will sometimes spot an enemy MIG on its approach and landing at the enemy base. Don't waste your missiles - only cannon fire will down this bandit! F-16A FIGHTING FALCON. The General Dynamics F-16 became operational in January 1979 and since that time more than 2000 have been delivered, from a production line which has more in common with a car factory than the usual pedestrian pace of Aerospace. It is the US Air Force's front line Air Defence Fighter backing up the Fairchild A-10 in the ground attack (or mud mover) role. It has been exported to 16 countries with Japan planning a heavily modified version dubbed SX-3. Future development possibilities include an uprated 'Agile Falcon' and an A-16 dedicated attack fighter. SPECIFICATION. Engine: Pratt & Whitney F100-PW-200 turbofan; 23,840lb thrust on afterburner. Length: 49ft 4in Wingspan: 31ft Height: 16ft 8in Weights: Empty 14,567lb; Normal Take-Off 23,300lb; Maximum Take-Off 35,400lb. Max Speed: 795 kt (1.2M) at sea level; 1,172 kt (M2.05) at 40,000ft. Ceiling: 55,000ft Sensors: Hughes APG-66 coherent pulse doppler look down/ shoot down radar. Armament: Two wingtip missiles rails, 3 wing hardpoints and one centre line hardpoint, 1 30mm cannon. The F-16 grew out of yet another attempt to produce a small, cheap dogfighter instead of the hi-tek leviathans such as the F-14 and F-15 which were in vogue. As usual, the initial plans grew a bit and the F-16 is not exactly small and at $17 million, not exactly cheap. On the other hand, it is arguably the best dog fighter of all time. It has excellent all round visibility from the one piece bubble canopy. Its fly by wire controls make it the most forgiving fighter to fly - although some of the recent spates of crashes in Germany have been put down to pilots "pushing the envelope" and inducing high speed stalls. It is the first operational 'unstable' aircraft where the centre of lift is in front of the centre of gravity. On the plus side, this allows the tailplane to provide lift rather than downthrust. Also, on a stable aircraft, this stability provides some inertia and hence resistance to any manoeuver the pilot wishes to make. Great for a commercial "coach with wings", a total disaster for a fighter. On the minus side, the aircraft can only be flown by the computer which compensates for the unstable configuration with constant signals to the control surfaces. The pilot's control inputs also go through the computer - he is not directly connected to the flaperons and tailerons. So if all the computers get SNAFUd it's time to punch out. THE MIG-29QA Nato codename "Fulcrum", the Mig-29A first became operatio- nal with the Soviet Airforce in 1983. There are now believed to be over 500 in service in the USSR. India, Iraq, Yugoslavia and Syria have also taken deliveries with other countries such as East Germany and North Korea believed to hav edeliveries on the way. SPECIFICATION. Engines: Two Tumansky R-33D turbofans; 18250lb thrust each with afterburning. Length: 56ft 10in. Wingspan: 37ft 3in. Height: 15ft 6in. Weight: Empty 22,500lb; Normal 33,000lb; Maximum 39,000lb. Max Speed: Mach 2.3 at 40,000ft. Mach 1.1 at sea level. Take off 118kt. Ceiling: 56,000; sea level rate of climb 65,000 ft/min. Range: 1133 n.m. Armament: Up to 6 AA-10 Alamo or AA-11 Archer missiles. One 30mm Cannon. Sensors: NO-93 look down/ shoot down coherent pulse-doppler radar (54n.m. range). Infra red tracker, laser range finder and helmet mounted sight. (All figures courtesy Mikoyan design bureau) The aircraft represents a significant advance in Soviet air capability. In size, it is slightly smaller than the US F-15 which tackles the same air superiority/interception role as the Fulcrum. Cynics point out that this aircraft and the similarly advanced Sukhoi SU-27 "Flanker" are simply copies of the F-15 and F-14 respectively and their advanced radars come from industrial espionage at the Hughes radar plant. Less jaundiced observers suggest that similar problems coupled to similar technology result in similar solutions. Its landing gear is stressed to allow rough strip landing and it has 'doors' on the air intakes to prevent foreign object damage (fod) from such airfields. Air is sucked in through louvres on the top of the wing whilst the doors are closed. It uses advanced materials such as composites although western observers at the Farnborough Air Show commented on the rather poor quality of finishing suggesting that Soviet manufacturing techniques at least still have some way to catch up with the West. The aircraft is stressed to handle up to 9g positive loads and perhaps its only failing as a close range dog fighter is the relatively poor visibility from its canopy betrayed by the "rear view mirrors" fitted to it. - although even this is a great improvement on earlier designs. The AA-19 Alamo missiles come in three versions. Alamo A uses semi-active radar guidance with a short burn rocket motor. Alamo B is similar to the A but with an infra red seeker. Alamo c is similar to A but with a longer burn rocket motor and hence weighs proportionately more. The AA-11 Archer has only recently entered service. Details of the performance of this missile are very scare at the moment but it is believed to be a close range dogfight missile with an infra red homing head and a capability similar to the latest sidewinders. The aircraft also represents a departure in marketing philosophy. Gone are the days of "Mig diplomacy". If you want the "Fulcrum" you'd better be willing to part with hard cash as the Russians believe their aircraft can be compared with anything the West has to offer at a similar price...... (This document typed by the Animal House........) Following are the docs to Lombard RAC Rally. I've got a strange feeling we may have already featured some docs, but we can't find 'em on previous doc disks. If we have simply overlooked them, we apologise for the repetition, but who gives a fuck ?? Sewer Rat !! LOMBARD RAC RALLY. INTRODUCTION. Lombard RAC Rally is a challenging and realistic simulation of the world famous car rally.Much more than a motor racing game,it will give you many hours of undiluted pleasure while at the same time providing a searching test of your driving and strategic skills. Achieving the ultimate objective-to finish the rally in the fastest time-will not be easy,but then neither is the real thing. Night driving,fog-shrouded roads,forest lanes and twisting mountainous tracks,all stand between you and victory.The chance to laying claim to one of the graetest prizes in world rallying is within your grasp.Are you up to it? OBJECTIVE. The main objective of Lombard RAC Rally is to take your Ford Sierra RS Cosworth into first place by beating the target times laid down for the competition.There are no points or penalties- just drive like the wind,watch out for other competitors and try to get to the end in one piece. SELECTING FROM THE MAIN OPTIONS. Following the opening title,the screen will display all the main options.Moving the joystick up or down will highlight each of these options in turn.To select a currently highlighted option, press fire button. THE FULL LOMBARD RAC RALLY. The full rally compels you to play all five legs of the rally(15 stages in all) in their predetermined sequence.however,you must first prove your competence to be admitted to this supreme test of driving skills by playing all five legs in any order you wish(see qualifying) and winning at least one prize overall. When you have thus qualified you may participate in the full rally by selecting Full Lombard RAC Rally from the options.Each of the prescribed legs must then be played in their proper sequence.The time taken on each stage is accumulated and you will only attain overall first place if you achieve the target time laid down. QUALIFYING. To qualify for the full Lombard RAC Rally,you must play all of the five legs at least once and must win a minimum of one prize overall (just finish 1st,2nd or 3rd in any leg). The individual legs listed on the main options screen,are. Harrogate - Telford Telford - Harrogate Harrogate - Carlisle Carlisle - Harrogate Harrogate - Harrogate You don't have to compete in the full rally.You may instead prefer to play any or all of the legs in any order and as often as you like,simply for fun or to sharpen up your driving skills. STAGES. Each of the five legs of the rally consists of three seperate and consecutive stages.When an individual leg is highlighted the panel on the right side of the screen will display,for that particular stage,the route map,the route type and conditions, the prescribed times,the prize money for achieving those times,and the names and times of the best runs achieved in the current session. Details of each of the three stages are obtained by moving the joystick left or right when an individual leg is highlighted.The highlighted number (1,2 or 3) at the top of the panel indicates which of the three stages is currently being referenced. The stage types are road,moutain and forest. The stage conditions are normal,night and fog. DRIVING YOUR FORD SIERRA RS COSWORTH. To steer,move the joystick left and right. To accelerate,push forward on the joystick.Pull back on the joystick to brake. To change up a gear,press the fire button while pushing forward on the joystick.To change down,press the fire button while pulling back on the joystick. One of the secrets of success in Lombard RAC Rally is timely gear changing.The stages are full of twist and turns,hills and valleys,keen and poor visibility-so it's a good idea to be nifty with the gearstick to suit the road conditions.Saving vital seconds is crucial. Leaving the road surface will slow you down and damage the car. A minor collision will cause the car to decelerate.But hitting an object with more force will cause the car to stop.You'll have to re-select first gear and get going again as quickly as possible. A violent crash may mean the end of the race or,more typically, valuable time being lost while the car is gently repositioned on the road and first gear is selected. The control gauge panel displayed above the gear box shows vital data about the condition of the cosworths engine,suspension and tyre wear. The top two gauges are:Engine damage indicator (left) Suspension damage indicator (right) The bottom left gauge is the tyre wear indicator. The other three gauges produce technical data which is analyzed by your co-drive,don't worry about them. To the right of the screen is the speedo and tacho.These display current speed and engine tick over rate respectively. The timer on the Cosworths dashboard indicates the cumulative elapsed time for the leg in minutes and seconds.The timer attached to the map clipboard shows the elapsed time for the stage. During the full Lombard RAC Rally the dashboard timer will display the lowest target time for the present leg. Failure to equal or beat this time results in a 'Time out' and your rally will end. If this happens press the fire button to return to the main menu where you can decide to try the full rally again or select Start Again. WORKSHOP. You may visit the workshop at any time be selecting the Workshop option from the main options screen or by pressing the W key during a stage. But beware: If you elect to take your car to the workshop while racing the time spent there will be added to your overall time for that stage. Provided you have the money you can make desired changes or essential repairs to your Cosworth. You may wish to visit the workshop simply to check on the current state of your car. There is no obligation to spend your hard-earned cash! Any damage done to bodywork, suspension, engine or tyres is shown as a percentage figure (maximum 99%) beside the relevant item on the right of the workshop screen. The repair cost is #1 for each percentage point of damage. To effect repairs, move the joystick until the appropriate part of the car is highlighted (the respective box at the right hand side of the screen will also be highlighted with a blue surround) and press the fire button. Press the fire button again if you want to halt the repair (you might not want to spend all your cash on that particular item). The cost of the repair will automatically be deducted from your cash in hand. To effect changes to the car, highlight the Parts box and move the joystick up or down. The available parts will be shown in turn, each with the cost of purchasing that component. Simply press the fire button to buy the part you require and it will be fitted, always assuming you can meet the bill! The panel to the right of the parts box indicates the current specification of your Cosworth. To leave the workshop,highlight the exit box and press the fire button. Please note:Failure to pay due care and attention to the state of your Cosworth and to take necessary remedial action will affect it's performance and may even render the car (and you) unfit for rallying. EARNING MONEY. There are two ways to earn money.The first is by winning cash prizes during the rally.The second is to indulge your ego in a TV interview.Selecting the TV interview from the main options allows you to take part in the Lombard RAC Rally trivia quiz. During the 40 seconds alloted you will be presented with a series of questions on all aspects of the Lombard RAC Rally.Each question comes complete with a choice of three answers.Simply select the one you think is correct by highlighting A.B or C (move your joystick up and down) and press the fire button. The good news is that every question answered correctly wins you #50. The bad news is everyquestion answered incorrectly will cost you #20. If you fail to answer all five questions "Time out" occurs and all winnings are lost. Still, the programmers have not been too unkind. No matter how badly you fare at this option, your cash balance will never fall below zero! One further thing. You are only permitted one TV interview before each leg of the rally. PRACTISE If you simply wish to practise, select this option from the main options screen. Naturally, no prize money is available during a practise run. DEMO To see how it should be done, select this option and sit back and watch. The game will also go into demo mode if left untouched for 50 seconds. You can get back to the game by moving the joystick or pressing the fire button. OTHER FEATURES Pressing the spacebar will pause the simulation, enabling you to pop out for a quick oil change or to wipe the mud from your display. To continue, press the spacebar again. Hitting the Excape key immediately abandons the current activity and returns you to the main option screen with all timings and earnings intact. Should you wish to begin the simulation again from scratch, selecting the Start Again option from the main menu will let you do just that. HISTORY OF THE RALLY The contrast between the Lombard RAC Rally today and the first one held 56 years earlier is remarkable. Although now a major event in what is arguably the most exciting and toughest form of motorsport, the rally began life as little more than a gently, organised ramble round the English countryside. The UK economy in 1931 was in a state of emergency. To help the balance of payments situation it was decided to set up a British alternative to the famous Monte Carlo Rally and thereby stem some of the money being spent abroad at this event and perhaps draw the public's attention to the attractions of British coastal resorts. THE TORQUAY RALLY As a result of what was to turn out to be a momentous decision, the first British rally took place in March 1932. As Torquay was chosen to be the finishing point, it was offically known as the Torquay Rally. The contestants started their 1,000 mile route from Bath, Buxton, Edinburgh, Harrogate, Leamington, London, Newscastle and Norwich. The principal aim of those choosing the routes was to try and ensure that everyone got to Torquay where the winner would be determined by a series of tests. Of the 341 contestants, among whom were many peers of the realm as well as racing drivers, 312 made it to the finish. The average speed required on the road sections was 22 and 25 mph . There were no overnight halts and among the casualties was one driver who fell asleep at the wheel and rammed a telegraph pole, another who overturned on the little ice there was on the route, and a further unfortunate who collided with a horse just eight miles from the start. TO THE SLOWEST THE VICTORY The first of the three tests to decide the winner involved driving in top gear as slowly as possible along 100 yards of Torquay promenade. This was followed by an acceleration test, at the conslusion of which the distance required to bring the car to a dead stop was measured. The use of complicated formula to achieve equity between the different cars had a strange side- effect - the slower a motorist travelled in the first test, the more favourable the result! The winner of this bizarre test, with an averabe speed of 0.66mph, was Colonel Loughborough driving a Lanchester. As it turned out, he was also the overall victor of what motoring history records as the first ever RAC Rally. THE RALLY CONTINUES With some changes, the event was held every year thereafter until 1939, after which the Second World War brought it to an end. When the rally returned in June 1951, it was granted international status. Bournemouth was selected as the finish point and four starting locations were used - Brighton, Cheltenham, Harrogate and Skegness. Tests were now conducted throughout the rally. All routes converged on Silverstone, where the final test was to complete a given number of laps at a minimum average speed per class. Ford stamped their imprint on the 1954 Rally. They took the manufacturer's team prize and a Ford Zephyr finished in third place. The rally was cancelled in 1957, due to the Suez crisis and consequent petrol rationing. The following year the RAC made every effort to encourage foreigh entries by placing the emphasis not on navigation but on speed, and planning to have a starting point at Le Touquet in France. However, only one entry from abroad was received and that was from a Briton living in Sweden! As a result, the Le Touquet control was dropped. FORD TRIUMPHANT. By changing the date to November and devising a testing route,a higher overseas contingent was attracted to the 1959 rally.there were 16 foreign entries,including the winner of the Monte Carlo rally.The tough route took the contestants from Blackpool to the Scottish Highlands and back through Wales to finish at the Crystal Palace.Unfortunately,appalling weather in the highlands, snow,floods and fog,all but ruined the event. Even so,it was to be a vintage year for Ford-they not only won the manufacturer's team prize again but also finished in first position,again with a Ford Zephyr.Ford were to go on to win the team prize in 1963,1964, and then in three consecutive years from 1977-1979,a hat-trick never since emulated by any other company. In fact,Ford have won the manufacturer's team prize more times than anyone else in the rally's history. TULIPS FROM HOLLAND. The 1960 rally saw some movement away from public to private roads and there was less navigational content.The contestants had use of a comprehensive Tulip road book-a manual which,by the use of signs and symbols,gave accurate directions linked to the distance from the previous control.The book was based and named after a scheme sucessfully used by the methodical Dutch in their own Tulip rally. In fourth place in the 1963 rally was a BMC Mini-Cooper driven by Paddy Hopkirk.This was to be the begining of the rise of the Mini In 1964,Ford were again making their mark with a Cortina finishing a third position.But in 1965 BMC cars led almost frtom the start to the finish.That rally was won by the Finn,Rauno Aaltonen,driving a Mini-Cooper S.BMC Minis again dominated the rally in 1966 but Ford struck back and a Lotus-Cortina finished first.Other noteworthy facts about the 1966 rally were that this was the first appearance by a Lancia and there were entries from two Grand Prix drivers,Graham Hill and Jim Clark. TRYING TIMES. An outbreak of foot and mouth disease in Britain caused the cancellation of the 1967 rally but next year Ford were back in action,gaining third place with an Escort.Dreadful weather conditions brought chaos to the 1971 rally-snow drifts and ice- encrusted roads caused total disarray and many cars were brought to a complete standstill.So bad were the conditions that,in the middle of a special stage,one car was even attempting to drive in the wrong direction! In contrast,the 1972 rally was a huge success,mainly thanks to a larger HQ control,a more compact route (1,800 miles with 72 stages),better organisation and improved weather.The surprise winner,beating the previous year's victor (Stig Blomqvist in a Saab),was a Ford Escort driven by Roger Clark and Tony Mason navigating.This was to be the first of eight consectutive RAC rally victories for the famous Ford car.Three of those wins (1973 - 1975) being gained by the combined efforts of Timo Makinen and Henry Liddon. A CHANGE OF NAME. By 1974 the RAC rally had become renowned as an event for the finest rally drivers and cars in the world,and following a sucessful liasonship with the Lombard group,became known as the Lombard RAC Rally. The year 1980 saw the Ford Escort's string of fist place victories come to an end,beaten into second place by Henri Toivenen and Paul White in a Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus.The next three years were to be dominated by one of the new breed of supercars, the tubocharged,four wheel drive,Audi Quattro.Driven in 1981-1982 by Hannu Mikkola and Arne Hertz at his side and in 1983 by Stig Blomqvist with Bjorn Cederberg,the Audi Quattro broke all rally performance expectations and in doing so altered the face of world championship rallying.Even so,a Ford Escort still finished second in 1980 and in 1981 took the ladies prize,the eighth time Ford had won this award. FROM STRENGTH TO STRENGTH. Bringing events right up to date,the most recent four years have seen the pattern change yet again.Now it was the time for two other cars to take turns to win this famous rally.In 1984 and 1986,a Peugeot 205 took the honours while in 1985 and 1987,a Lancia Delta reigned supreme.The 1985 highlight was another landmark in rallying history- the Austin Rover Metro made it's international debut and finished third. What the future holds is anyones guess,Ford have undoubtedly made their indelible mark on the rally's history and will assuredly continue to appear in the prize lists. PREVIOUS WINNERS. The first rally was held in 1932.Up to 1937 only class winners were produced before a classification for overall winner was introduced. Year Winners Car 1937 Jack Harrop SS Jaguar 2.5 litre 1938 Jack Harrop SS Jaguar 2.5 litre 1939 A F P Fane Frazer-Nash BMW 328 1940 to NO RALLY 1950 1951 Ian Appleyard/Pat Appleyard Jaguar XK 120 1952 Godfrey Imhof/Mrs.B Frayling Allard-Cadillac J2 1953 Ian Appleyard/Pat Appleyard Jaguar XK 120 1954 John Wallwork/J H Brooks Triumph TR2 1955 Jimmy Ray/Brian Horrocks Standard 10 1956 Lyndon Sims/R Jones/A Ambrose Aston Martin DB2 1957 NO RALLY 1958 Peter Harper/Dr E W Deane Sunbeam Rapier 1959 Gerald Burgess/Sam Croft-Pearson Ford Zephyr 1960 Erik Carlsson/Stuart Turner Saab 96 1961 Erik Carlsson/John Brown Saab 96 1962 Erik Carlsson/David Stone Saab 96 1963 Tom Trana/S Lindstrom Volvo PV544 1964 Tom Trana/Gunnar Thermanius Volvo PV544 1965 Rauno Aaltonen/Tony Ambrose Mini-Cooper S 1966 Bengt Soderstrom/Gunnar Palm Ford Cortina-Lotus 1967 NO RALLY 1968 Simo Lampinen/John Davenport Saab V4 1969 Harry Kalstrom/Gunnar Haggbom Lancia Fulvia HF 1970 Harry Kalstrom/Gunnar Haggbom Lancia Fulvia HF 1971 Stig Blomqvist/Arne Hertz Saab V4 1972 Roger Clark/Tony Mason Ford Escort RS 1600 1973 Timo Makinen/Henry Liddon Ford Escort RS 1600 1974 Timo Makinen/Henry Liddon Ford Escort RS 1600 1975 Timo Makinen/Henry Liddon Ford Escort RS 1800 1976 Roger Clark/Stuart Pegg Ford Escort RS 1800 1977 Bjorn Waldergard/Hans thorszlius Ford Escort RS 1978 Hannu Mikkola/Arne Hertz Ford Escort RS 1979 Hannu Mikkola/Arne Hertz Ford Escort RS 1980 Henri Toivonen/Paul White Talbot Sunbeam-Lotus 1981 Hannu Mikkola/Arne Hertz Audi Quattro 1982 Hannu Mikkola/Arne Hertz Audi Quattro 1983 Stig Blomqvist/Bjorn Cederberg Audi Quattro 1984 Ari Vatanen/Terry Harryman Peugeot 205 T16 1985 Henri Toivonen/Neil Wilson Lancia Delta S4 1986 Timo Salonen/Seppo Harjanne Peugeot 205 T16 E2 1987 Juha Kankkunen/Juha Piironen Lancia Delta HIGHLIGHTS OF THE OFFICIAL RULES. 1.ELIGIBLTY. The event is a qualifying round for: The FAI World Rally Championship for manufacturers The FAI World Rally Championship for drivers The Triple Crown Championship 2.DESCRIPTION. The length of the rally will be approximately 1700 miles (2700 klms) including 350 miles (560 klms) of special stages. 3.ROUTE RECONNAISSANCE. Practising,reconnoitering or having prior information of the special stages in the form of pace notes is expressly forbidden except under the following conditions and on the dates and times laid down:a( competitors may traverse the stages at a maximum speed of 25 mph (40 kph) b( rally cars not permitted. 4.ELIGIBLE COMPETITORS. Any person holding a currently valid FIA international competitors licence. 5.ENTRY FEES. a)With optional advertising proposed by the organisers: (i) Entry paid three weeks before closing date:#640. (ii) Entry paid one week before closing date:#950. (iii) Entry paid by closing date:#1250. b)Without optional advertising:Double the above amounts. 6.TIME CARDS. a)Each crew will be given a book of time cards on which the times to cover distances between time controls will appear. b)The crew is responsible for submitting the time card at the different controls and for the accuracy of the entries. c)The absence of a stamp or official mark from any control or the failure to hand in the time card at each control will result in exclusion from the event. 7.TRAFFIC LAWS. Throughtout the rally competitors must strictly observe the traffic laws of the United Kingdom.Competitors shall always drive and conduct htemselves in a manner which shall not discredit the event or arouse adverse public opinion. 8.REPAIRS. repairs and refuelling are freely permitted throughout the whole event. 9.ADVERTISING. Competitors are allowed to affix any kind of advertising to their cars,provided that:- a)It is authorised by the national laws and organising conditions for World Rally Championship events. b)It is not likely to give offence. c)That it does not encroach upon the space reserved for plates and competition numbers. d)That it does not interfere with the crew's vision through the windows. 10.SPECIAL STAGES. Crews are forbidden to drive in the opposite direction to that of the rally,under pain of exclusion. Following is a short listing of all the known ST viruses and any information known about them. For a comprehensive Virus Killer which deals with all of these (and more), check out Sewer Utilities Disk Number 3, which will be released very soon. ------------THE KNOWN VIRUSES AND THEIR SYMPTOMS-------------- This is a systematic description of all viruses that are recognized by the Atari Virus Killer. The 'discovery date' that is mentioned is the actual date on which the virus was first documented to be seen as far as I know. Between brackets, the person who discovered it is mentioned - when known. BOOTSECTOR VIRUSES Virus #1 Name: Signum/BPL Virus Discovery date: November 22nd 1987 (Klaus Seligmann) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks. Checks for code; when this is found the bootcode in that disk is executed. This has not yet been seen. Remark: This is the most widely spread virus; an approximate estimate brings it to 1.5 million copies worldwide! Virus #2 Name: Mad Virus Discovery date: March 26th 1988 (Eerk Hofmeester) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks. When this is done five times, it starts fooling around with the screen or bleeping with the soundchip. Remark: A relatively harmless virus, therefore also sometimes referred to as 'FUN Virus'. Virus #3 Name: Mutant Signum/BPL virus Discovery date: Summer 1988 (Anton Raves) Symptoms: Disk on which the virus is present is unreadable due to a damaged BPB. Remark: This is no actual virus, but a virus that was corrupted while active in the system. Virus #4 Name: ACA Virus Discovery date: June 29th 1988 (Little Joe) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks. When this is done 10 times, the virus clears track 0 (BPB and FATs) of the disk. Data is then unrecoverably lost. Remark: This virus is made by the ACA crew from Sweden (telephone number (Sweden) 0300/63350). Virus #5 Name: Freeze Virus Discovery date: July 12th 1988 (Carsten Frischkorn) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks each time the directory (logical sector 11) is accessed. Right from loading on, it starts slowing down your system more and more, until it freezes. Virus #6 Name: Screen Virus Discovery date: July 12th 1988 (Carsten Frischkorn) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks, but not to executable ones. Blackens the screen after a specific time. Remark: Only works on 02.06.1986 ROMs (German pre-blitter TOS). Virus #7 Name: C'T Virus Discovery date: Summer 1988 (Wim Nottroth) Symptoms: Can also copy itself to harddisk due to an undocumented value of the Bios Rwabs call. Resetproof. When it gets active (date stamp is 1987), it deletes the FATs of both your floppy-and harddisk - all data is then irretrievably lost! Remark: This virus was featured in a German magazine called "Computer & Technik". The author claims he 'found it' on one of his disks. A listing was included, so that people could reproduce and adapt the virus with ease. It writes the message "ARRRGGGHHH Diskvirus hat wieder zugeschlagen" on the screen when it is activated. Virus #8 Name: Maulwurf I Virus, English TOS version Discovery date: September 3rd 1988 (Joerg Kruse) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks. When the VBL or Get_bpb system variables are changed it becomes active. It then puts the message "Maulwurf I - SSG (Subversive Software Group)" on the screen and locks up your system. It's reset-proof. Remark: This virus was made by the Subversive Software Group in Germany. Virus #9 Name: Bayerische Hacker Post (BHP) Virus Discovery date: September 10th 1988 (Henrik Alt) Symptoms: Multiplies itself to other disks. No other effects. Remark: Made by the Bayerische Hacker Post. This is a small computer user's group in Germany that also publishes a small club magazine. In that magazine, the virus was said to reset- proof, and that it would write through the write-protect notch (haha!). None if this is true. Virus #10 Name: Lab-Virus Discovery date: September 10th 1988 (Henrik Alt) Symptoms: Multiplies itself to other disks. When this is done 10 times, everything goes on as usual but the screen is blackened. Remark: This virus is an adapted version of the BHP virus. Virus #11 Name: FAT-Virus Discovery date: May 1st 1988 (George Woodside) Symptoms: Multiplies itself to other disks, except when they're already executable. It uses time delays to make it more difficult to detect. After a while, it starts to randomly access memory - this can create memory errors and bombs, or memory contents to be corrupted. A typical symptom: Blots appearing on your screen randomly. It only works on 02-06-1986 ROMs (German pre-blitter TOS). Remark: This virus spreads easily and rapidly. It is bigger than just one bootsector and also uses the last FAT sector to write itself on. It is probably made in Switserland, and is also called "Swiss"-or "Blot"-virus. Virus #12 Name: Ghost Virus Discovery date: November 20th 1988 (Carmen Brunner) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks. After copying itself 10 times, this virus inverts the mouse Y directions. Supposed to be made by someone called Pash in Doncaster, England. Probably reset-proof. Remark: This virus is very widely spread (England, Sweden, Holland, West Germany). It is also called "Mouse" virus. Virus #13 Name: 5th Generation Virus Discovery date: December 6th 1988 Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks whenever the Bios Rwabs function is called (watch it: The Xbios functions Flop_rd and Flop_wr also use this!), but only on drive A, and when the disk is not already executable. When the virus has reached its fifth generation, it writes trash in the first 34 sectors of the disk, lethally corrupting FAT-, bootsector- and directory- sectors. Virus #14 Name: Oli Virus Discovery date: December 10th 1988 Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks. It stops doing that after having done that 20 times. It also installs itself on harddisk! Remark: It is not exactly known what the virus does! It is reset- proof. Virus #15 Name: Maulwurf I Virus, German TOS version Discovery date: January 1st 1989 Symptoms and remark: See virus #8 Virus #16 Name: Kobold #2 Virus Discovery date: January 2nd 1989 Symptoms: Copies itself to other disk (?). This virus is programmed in a VERY DIFFICULT way (let's put the guy who did it in boiling lead!), and it is therefore not really known what it does. From Yugoslavia, a message reached me that this virus formats your harddisk... Actually, it only seems to copy to drive A. It only gets active after a second reset after having been installed. Remark: This virus is thought to be coming from Germany (it says "Kobold #2 Aktiv", which is German). It is reset-proof. Virus #17 Name: Mutant MAD Virus Discovery date: January 1989 (Frits Couwenberg) Symptoms: See virus #2 Remark: Some of the last screen fiddle/sound routines in this virus have been corrupted by alien code. It will therefore crash when these routines are executed. Virus #18 Name: First Mutant Antivirus #1 Discovery date: January 28th 1989 Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks (except when they're executable). Some of the latter half of its code is corrupted by alien code, however, and may/will result in a system crash. Remark: Read further for more info about anti-viruses. Virus #19 Name: Goblin Virus Discovery date: April 3rd 1989 (Clive Duberley) Symptoms: Copies itself to other disks. It does something with the disk buffer and the screen, so may corrupt random disk data. Contains the screen message "The Green Goblins Strike Again". Remark: Not exactly analyzed so far. Probably made in England. Virus #20 Name: Second Mutant Antivirus #1 Discovery Date: March 6th 1989 (Thomas Gathen) Symptoms: System crashes, mainly. This is just a gigantically busted antivirus #1, and really can't do anything decent. Most probably doesn't even multiply... Virus #21 Name: Counter Virus Discovery Date: May 1989 Symptoms: Copies itself to drive A and B. Keeps a generation counter, but doesn't do anything more. Virus #22 Name: Help Virus Discovery date: September 1988 Symptoms: This is no real virus, because it cannot multiply itself without help. During booting, the screen is filled with bombs. Remark: No real virus, but it remains in the bootsector and does something that users don't like. Virus #23 Name: Random Virus Discovery date: September 1988 Symptoms: A virus that is not resetproof and that copies itself to A and B. Sometimes (when harddisk/RAMdisk installe) it doesn't work at all. After a couple of disk changes, some random values are written into memory at random locations. This causes crashes to occur. Virus #24 Name: Gauweiler Virus Discovery date: May 1989 Symptoms: Installs itself in memory. It is resetproof and gets active after the first reset. Writes the text "AIDS - Gauweilers Rache" on the screen of your monitor. LINK VIRUSES Virus #1 Name: Milzbrand Discovery date: Spring 1988 (Wim Nottroth) Symptoms: When the date stamp is set to 1987, it clears track 0 of your floppy disk, destroying all FAT data and filling the bootsector with a message "Dies ist ein Virus!" ("This is a virus!"). Symptoms can vary because the virus was offered as a, fully documented, type-in-listing (!) in the German mag "Computer & Technik" and the reader could easily adapt the routines himself. Remark: This virus was written by Eckhard Krabel, who lives in Berlin, Germany. Virus #2 Name: Virus Construction Set Part II Discovery date: October 1988 (Frank Lemmen) Symptoms: These vary from the message "You have ten seconds to find out how to prevent a reset" (after which a countdown follows and a reset) to routines that can be written by the user himself - the "Virus Construction Set" is a program with which the user can create his own viruses! Symptoms are therefore without limit! Remark: The "Virus Construction Set Part II" was published by a company in Bad Soden, Germany. It is now not sold anymore. Virus #3 Name: Uluru Discovery date: November 1988 Symptoms: Not precisely known, but it is said to attach itself to "1st Word"/"1st Word Plus" and randomly corrupt documents when working with an infected version of the program. It is not even known when it exactly multiplies itself. Virus #4 Name: Papa & Garfield Discovery date: November 1988 Symptoms: This is a reset-proof virus, that installs itself in memory when an infected program is loaded. After that, every other program that is loaded into memory is infected. It can be recognized by a flashing pixel in the left top corner of the screen and the message "Garfield and Papa was here", preceeded by a bleep sound. Remark: Probably only works on one megabyte machines (or higher) since it uses the absolute screen address $F8000. Virus #5 Name: Crash Discovery Date: March 20th 1989 (Claus-Peter Moeller) Symptoms: A reset-proof virus, that also installs itself in your system and then infects every program you load in afterwards. It is not exactly known what it does, but it probably crashed your system after a specific number of copies made. Remark: Probably programmed in Germany. ------------------------------------- King's Quest Solved : by Skeleton Key with thanks to The Seeker ------------------------------------- Edited for Doc Disk #9 by Sewer Rat ------------------------------------- I am a firm believer that "King's Quest" by Seirra Online software is one of the best, if not the best, graphic adventure available today. For each puzzle in King's Quest there are several solutions, therefore, the solutions I offer here will not be the only solutions possible. These solutions will, however, be the ways which have been found to give the maximum score (if you find other methods, which obtain higher scores, then notify me immediately!). WARNING: This tutorial contains step by step instructions to play King's Quest, not just clues. If you wish to enjoy the game to it's fullest extent do not read this tutorial unless absolutely necessary and, DO NOT read this article before playing the game! If you wish to proceed now it is necessary that you have a knowledge of the game and it's various locations and have made a fair map of it. STAGE ONE : The Magic Mirror The first thing to do is visit the King in the castle and receive your quest: -->SPEAK TO KING following this go east, position yourself on either side of the rock (NOT in front of it, you'll crush yourself) and: --> MOVE ROCK --> LOOK IN HOLE --> TAKE DAGGER Next go to the old well, position yourself close to the well and: --> LOWER BUCKET --> CLIMB DOWN WELL Now that you're in the well: --> CUT ROPE This also TAKEs the bucket and fills it with water. Now, get into the water by falling of the rope (if you haven't already) and: --> DIVE At this stage you should be swimming around in the bottom of the well. Swim over to a cavity in the bottom-left of the well and swim through it. SHOCK! HORROR! A Dragon! Don't get to close or you'll be fried. Instead walk up so that your just out of reach of the flames (the dragon will only come so far then stop) and: --> THROW WATER AT DRAGON The mortified dragon should have left by now, removing the rock as he went. --> TAKE MIRROR and, the first stage of your quest has been completed. STAGE TWO : The Magic Shield Getting the magic shield takes a little more preparation than getting the mirror, so be prepared to do some walking. Firstly you must get one of the protections, either the spell from the fairy (in the bushy grove, west of the corral) or get the elven ring of invisibility from the elf (on the wooded shore, east of the door in the mountain). Now the fun begins... Go to the clover patch (between the cliffs and the lake) and: --> TAKE CLOVER Then find your way to the candy house belonging to the witch and enter by the front door, making sure you are using your protection (ring or spell) if the witch is there. Now, go into the bedroom, walk over to the bedside table and: --> TAKE NOTE --> READ NOTE (remember this for later use) then, go back into the main room and go over to the cupboard on the north wall. --> OPEN CUPBOARD --> TAKE CHEESE Having done this exit from the candy house and go to cave entrance (north east of the candy house). If theRe is not a big bird flying around go away and come back again (until the bird appears). Once the bird is overhead, position Sir Graham in bottom right of the screen under the flight of the bird. When the bird flies close to him, jump up (using the joystick button) and the bird should lift you up and take you away. When the bird drops you again, near the hole, go west to the next scene (castle in the background), --> TAKE MUSHROOM and then return to the hole. Now fall down the hole (boy did that hurt!). Follow the passage until you meet a small rat in front of a closed door. Get close to the rat (but not too close) and: --> GIVE CHEESE TO RAT Then walk over to the door: --> OPEN DOOR and walk though it. Okay, now you've met your first leprechaun (just wait 'till you meet the rest of them in the main hall south of here). Walk into the hall and go over to the shield (you're protected by your four-leaf clover) and: --> TAKE SHIELD Exit the room by the western stairs and climb up into the small cave. --> EAT MUSHROOM and quickly run out though the small western hole before you return to your normal size. Stage two is now completed, so onward and upward to the final goal... STAGE THREE : The Magic Chest This the final stage, is the most difficult. First, you'll need a few objects, so here's how to find them: Go to the rocky river bank (east of the dwarf) and: --> TAKE PEBBLES then, go to carrot patch and: --> TAKE CARROT then, make sure you remember what the note in the witch's house said. With these items collected, you can begin... With caRrot in hand find the corral and: --> OPEN GATE walk into the corral and wait for the goat to appear. When it does walk over to it and: --> SHOW CARROT TO GOAT you've made a friend for life, so leave the corral and the goat will follow you. Now, go to any of the bridges frequented by the troll, as soon as the goat sees the troll it'll attack it and rid you of this obstacle. This done, you can safely cross the bridge and visit the gnome. When you're within speaking distance of the gnome: --> SPEAK TO GNOME The gauntlet has now been thrown down and you must guess the gnomes name (sound like a fairy tale you know?). The gnomes name is: -->IFNKOVHGROGHPRM This needs some explanation: the gnome's name is Rumplestiltskin but it h!s been encoded. The clue to this is the note in the Candy house which said "It's sometimes helpful to think backwards." What you do is write out the alphabet then write it out backwards underneath the first then encode the name Rumplestiltskin by referring the letters in the first alphabet to those in the second. (pretty sneaky, eh?) The gnome drops some beans at this point and disappears, so: --> TAKE BEANS Beans! (another fairy tale? Sure is.). Take the beans to any one of the fertile areas in the game (I used one of the flower patches) and: --> PLANT BEANS Lo and behold, a beanstalk (well, what did you expect?). What now? --> CLIMB BEANSTALK The beanstalk ends in the clouds, so walk on the cloud to the east into the cloud-lands. In the far north east of the cloud-lands, you'll find a sling. --> TAKE SLING then go and play David and Goliath with the Giant, who also lives up here. --> USE SLING One dead giant. Walk over to the body and: --> TAKE CHEST You can go back down either by the stairs (to the east, and much safer) or by the beanstalk (if you're lucky!). Once on terra firma again you're ready to go back and see the King and inherit the earth. Go back to the castle, enter and: --> BOW TO KING then watch the King "cark-it"! Now you can take your rightful position as King of Daventry. STAGE FOUR : BOOSTING YOUR SCORE The above tutorial by no means uses all of the items in the game, and some of the ones not used are worth points, so here is a run down of all the other treasures which you can pick up on the way: Treasures Location ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Golden Egg In the big tree (north west of the castle) Golden Walnut Under the walnut tree (open nut) Fiddle In the Woodcutter's shack (take the bowl in,put it on the table and "SAY FILL" Pouch of diamonds Inside the old stump (north west of the woodcutter's shack). SceptRe Play the fiddle to the leprechaun king. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- by the __ / \________ |Skeleton Key\ \__/`'~~~~~~~ King Quest II Sierra On-Line Inc A Walkthru by Andr Lafrenire Edited by Sewer Rat King Quest II is the first Sierra game the ST computer fans had the chance to see, and it no doubt is the one I appreciated the most. I would like to pay tribute to Raymond M. Deschnes who greatly helped me finish the game. You became King Graham after King Quest I, and right from the start, you realize that you are getting bored of being all alone in your castle. You're in the throne room and as you step in front of your magic mirror, you notice the face of a beautiful maiden. She is held prisonner in a dungeon on a strange island. Listening only to your courage, you head for adventure. At the risk of repeating myself, and as with the rest of the King Quest series, you MUST regularly save your game position. Otherwise, you'll have to begin all over again very often because the traps are numerous. The adventure starts on the ocean shore. Go east for two screens to the grandmother's house. OPEN MAILBOX, GET BASKET OF GOODIES, and CLOSE MAILBOX. Go east and then north to the tree with a door in it. It's the house of a funny little goblin. OPEN DOOR and go down the ladder. At the bottom, head east inside the hall. If the goblin is there, leave the house and then come back in. (In fact, if he catches you, he will THROW you out). GET CAULDRON, OPEN CHEST, GET EARRINGS, CLOSE CHEST. Go back west and climb the ladder to leave the house. Next, go south for two screens, and then west for two. You should now be on the west side of grandma's house near the fence. Wait for the little Red Riding Hood (sure!) right there. As soon as you see the little girl, get close to her. TALK TO GIRL, GIVE BASKET TO GIRL. She's so happy that she gives you a bunch of flowers. Now, go east towards grandma's house. OPEN DOOR. If the wolf is in the bed, leave the house right away and come back in. Go towards grandma, TALK TO GRANDMA, GIVE SOUP TO GRANDMA. She then invites you to look under the bed. LOOK UNDER BED; you take the black cape and ruby ring that you find there. You may now leave the house. Starting outside the house, go east for three screens where you discover a monastery. OPEN DOOR and go to the altar where you meet a monk. PRAY; the monk asks you your name: GRAHAM and then, he gives you a silver cross. WEAR CROSS. Leave the monastery going south. Near the rock with a hole in it, LOOK AT ROCK, LOOK IN HOLE, and you discover a brooch with a large sapphire and row of diamonds. GET BROOCH. Now, head north twice right up to the bridge behind the monastery. Cross the bridge and head east and then north to the magic door. LOOK AT DOOR and READ INSCRIPTION. Go south and then west and cross the bridge. Go west and north to the tree with a hole in it. LOOK IN HOLE and GET MALLET. Go towards the west twice where you'll see a fallen tree. At the leftmost tip of the trunk, LOOK IN LOG and GET NECKLACE. Now, head north for two and then, west toward the tree. GET STAKE and head west for the beach. GET CLAM SHELL and GET BRACELET. We will now take a short detour that is not required in order to finish the game, but it will give you a perfect example of the Sierra people's sense of humour. Go south and then east; five trees are standing there... Head for the tree on the left of the screen (west). LOOK AT TREE, READ SIGN. A bit of advertising for Sierra!! Head back for the beach where you were a moment ago, by going west and then north. Walk south twice and GET TRIDENT. Get into the water and swim north for three screens. You should be in view of the mermaid. Swim towards her and GIVE FLOWERS TO MERMAID. She calls a seahorse to thank you. RIDE SEAHORSE. The seahorse guides you under the sea to encounter none other than Neptune himself. GIVE TRIDENT TO NEPTUNE. He gives you a bottle and opens an oyster containing a key. GET KEY and guide your seahorse east where he leaves you back near the beach. Swim to the beach. Head north for three, and while going through the boulders, head towards the east. You're near the entrance of the mean witch Hagatha's cavern. Enter the cave; Hagatha is there brewing her soup. Make sure you don't make any noise because she's blind, but she can still hear you. LOOK AT BOTTLE, GET CLOTH, get near the cage, COVER CAGE WITH CLOTH and GET CAGE. Leave the cavern. Outside the cavern, go east four times to reach the bridge and then head for the magic door. UNLOCK DOOR, the key disappears and then, READ INSCRIPTION. Cross the bridge again, go south and then west to end up facing the monastery's steeple. A good fairy should appear to protect you from the jinxes. Now, head east and then south for two screens to the antiques store. OPEN DOOR and TALK TO LADY. She will indicate that she has a lamp for you. GIVE BIRD TO LADY and she gives you the lamp. She's so thankful that she throws you out and closes her store! Outside the store, RUB LAMP; a genie appears and lays a magic carpet at your feet. FLY CARPET and you find yourself flying to the top of the mountain. Head east where you then find a snake. Get close to the snake (not TOO close!) and RUB LAMP. The genie appears again and gives you a sword; LOOK AT SWORD. Don't kill the snake with the sword (it would be too easy...). RUB LAMP and the genie gives you a briddle. PUT BRIDDLE ON SNAKE and a magnificent white horse appears. TALK TO HORSE; he gives you a magic sugar cube and flies off. Head east for two screens towards the cavern and there, you'll find a key. GET KEY, and head west to exit the cavern. FLY CARPET and you'll find yourself near the antiques store. Head north three screens and cross the bridge, go east and north to be near the door. UNLOCK DOOR and READ INSCRIPTION. Cross the bridge again. At the base of the bridge, head west for two screens and north for two. You will meet a dubious character guiding a boat. WEAR CLOAK AND RING and the character seems to recognize you. GET ON BOARD; he lets you come on board and gets you across the poisoned lake. LEAVE BOAT. The path is strewn with poisoned thorny branches. EAT SUGAR and you are now protected against the poison. Head for the castle's door and the ghosts will also clear the way for you since you are wearing the cloak and the ring. OPEN DOOR and you are now in Dracula's castle. Walk west and climb the stairs to Dracula's room. Go to the dresser and OPEN DRAWER, GET CANDLE, CLOSE DRAWER. Get back downstairs; along the way, LIGHT CANDLE on the torch. Walk east to the dining room and GET HAM. Walk east to the steps, walk down the steps and west to go through the door. If the coffin is opened, leave the room and re-enter until it is closed. Approach the coffin, OPEN COFFIN and KILL DRACULA. GET KEY... the third key for the magic door? No! It's a trap! GET PILLOW and GET KEY. Walk back upstairs to the dining room and then, north. Climb the stairs to the room. UNLOCK CHEST, OPEN CHEST and GET TIARA. Get back down the stairs and leave the castle by going south, west and south again. Outside the castle, GET IN BOAT to cross the lake once more. Go south twice and east twice towards the bridge you will cross for one last time. Go up to the magic door and UNLOCK DOOR. You'll then find yourself in a strange world at the side of the ocean. Go north, GET NET. FISH a few times until you catch one. GET FISH and HELP FISH. To thank you, the fish asks you to follow him. RIDE FISH; he guides you on the ocean and leaves you on the beach (none too gently, as a matter of fact...). Walk east, GET AMULET and walk south to the tower, OPEN DOOR, climb the stairs and you're face to face with a lion! GIVE HAM TO LION and he falls asleep. 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