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I P ^eɠ}l @ DfCL6@ ND aD fCL6@ ND fCL6@ C aD fCL6@ D fCL6@ DfCL6@ D fCL6@ DfCL6@ DfCL6@ DfCL6@ }ƍeC`OP}BBO `O@pOp}Ai@Ai@ UUUUUWwwwwww""""""""""""""""&fffffgwwwwwvfffffl}ffffff`ffffffffffff33333333fffffffffffffffffffffffff򀴥# -organ}#ommunications0roductsfffcfffcfffcfffcfffcfffcfffcfffcfffcfffcfffcfffc33333333333333333333333333333333333333333333333}3BB͍C ԭgCrAhCsAiCtAjCuAkCvAA Bi B@ B`OrAsA_tAuAvA B B B`H ԭ9IЍo9}Х)? ҩҍ h@fXYYɀXPY`Bm DJBp DzBᩄ D D`Cᩄ D }D`6Cᩄ D0i0 D`0i0` CC` Cƍ` C`Bᩄ D D}`` ND aD(LDIILD`@@ } ILD`@@ !******************************** THE POOR MAN'S NTSC SIGNAL ** GENERATOR **(Need GTIA for correct color})********************************This program was written in the hopes of being able to sell it, but instead we have} decided to upload it to Compuserve for public domain distribution. We think that it will help benefit } the the users of Atari computers and VCRs, as well as prospective monitor/TV buyers.We don't mean to write} a book, but the more you know the less likely you are to be ripped off by a salesman who knows nothing of TV or} end up buying something that does not fit your needs.There are a lot of monitor programs that have been written} and there are many monitor programs that don't even come close to the industry standard for proper ratios, levels, } and color phase (hue/tint). There are also several TVs and monitors on the market that just barely meet } the industry standards. As we all know there are companies out there to make a quick "BUCK$" and nothing else. A} good example of this is that other computer company that tries to imitate the Atari in function, but not} in quality.A few months ago we uploaded a color bars program to the Atari SIG. It was industry standard (to t}he best ability of the Atari computer). The color phase (hue/tint) was checked on a vector scope for proper alignme}nt and the luminance level (Contrast & Brightness) was checked on a waveform monitor for proper grey scale and l}evel output. We found that, with the control the Atari gave over luminance and hue, we could get very close }to the industry standard. The only drawback was that the old program was done in normal playfield (not comple}tely filling the screen).Since uploading the original color bars program, we have removed it and thought about its} uses, modified it, and added some more features to the program. This full package will help you and maybe educat}e you on the finer points of TVs/Monitors plus suggests an added application: video tape recording of color }bars (full screen) for TV adjustment before playing back your recordings. If you have ever gotten up early in} the morning and turned on your TV you may have seen the color bars and heard the tone(s) that your local station} transmit to test their equipment for proper setup. These are the same bars, with tone, that this program gen}erates.***** HOW TO USE THIS PROGRAM *****After loading this program you will see the color bars with a title line} near the middle of the screen, you will hear step tones of three notes and then silence. This sequence rep}eats.You then have the option of selecting a continuous tone or no tone, as they change, by pressing a console key at} the right time. The title will be removed and you will have the tone of your choice.Pressing any console key wi}ll change from split field to full field bars.Pressing a console key selects the following in order:1. Split fiel}d bars2. Full field bars3. Vertical lines4. Horizontal lines5. Cross hatch (convergence)6. Red field (purity)}7. Green field (purity)8. Blue field (purity)9. Bounce With cross hatch***** SPLIT FIELD BARS *****These bars }can be recorded at the beginning of a video tape as a reference for proper color playback on any VCR. Thi}s can be done with the monitor output jack connected directly to the video and audio input on the machine (for be}st results) or you can record from the tuner section of your VCR by connecting the antenna switch box from your comput}er to the antenna leads on your VCR.The colors of the bars should be as follows:1. First bar from left should} be white. The level is 75% of the overall signal.2. Second bar is yellow.3. Third bar is cyan.4. Fourth bar }is green.5. Fifth bar is magenta6. Sixth bar is red.7. Seventh bar is blue.8. The small bars beneath the main bar}s are the reverse order of every other color. These are useful if your color TV or monitor gives you blue onl}y. Matching the upper part of the blue bars with the small blue bars (using the color and tint controls) wil}l give you more accuracy in the setup. Again, this is for color TVs or monitors with blue-only switches.9. T}he last bar is the white reference that is 100% luminance of the overall signal. That means it is as bright as} the Atari can make it.When setting up your TV or monitor, all automatic switches (auto fine tune, auto color, } etc.) should be off. Because the Atari does not give a full level of chroma (color) the color level maybe a li}ttle stronger on regular TV viewing channels, but not a lot. If you should see the white background on the }left or right, try adjusting the horizontal hold in order to center your picture so no white background shows. If }you see the background on both sides, your horizontal size or width needs to be adjusted until the background }is gone on one side. Then repeat the centering with your horizontal hold and width until uniform centering is achei}ved. Some sets have horizontal centering controls.h your horizontal hold and width until uniform centering is achei6Due to timing of the signals through the electronics of a set that has a combination of TV and monitor inputs the c}entering may differ through one input, as opposed to the other. This does not matter to users with monitors }only because they will be using only the computer through it (there is no tuner connected).Adjust your contrast } and brightness for the best viewing level. Adjust the color and tint for the proper color level and order. You} probably wonder, "Is this all the bars are good for?". Well! With a good reference, you can tell when your} set needs the screens and drives adjusted or the picture tube needs to be replaced. If you turn down your} color all the way you will see grey bars going from bright to dark. If these bars do not look grey but app}ear red, blue, or green, then you should adjust the screens and drives to achieve a uniform grey. Use the red, } blue,or green screen adjustments, usually found on the back of the set (labeled background on some mon}itors or TVs), for the darker bars and drives (sometimes labeled highlights) for the lighter side. Now for the} tricky part. Turn your brightness all the way down slowly and observe the grey scale; it should remain as clo}se to grey as possible. Then turn it up all the way (slowly) and see if the whites stay as close to white as possibl}e.You should only check and adjust for this if your set has been on for a least a half hour. This is not s}omething that is done everyday this is only done as the picture tube gets older. If your are unable to adjust for pr}oper tracking and the grey is obviously not there then it might be time to replace the tube. If you see red, green}, or blue bleeding from whites or colors then its most likely time to change the tube even though you only see }it now and then. Sometimes the electronics can cause the same effect, so, to be safe, have it checked by } an authorized technician. Turn your color all the way up. If the bleeding occurs and the set is new, we sugges}t taking it back or not buying it.Some tubes last as long as 10 years. Others don't last anywhere near that long, w}hile some last more.The other test signals in this package will help you to determine your sets ability. Th}ere is no need to worry about matching monitor displays so that they track equally (if you were to, your tube m}ight only be good for one to three years maximum).Full field bars are used in the same way as split field b}ars, except you don't have the 100% white to gauge the contrast level. However, it helps in grey scale adjustm}ent.***** MONITOR vs. TV *****Everyone is familiar with the TV, but not everyone is familiar with the monitor. } The TV receives an RF (Radio Frequency) signal which is actually video and audio combined on a single car}rier (channel); this process adds noise to the signal. Then the TV must pull the two signals off the carrier a}nd send it to the proper electronics in the set, thus adding more noise to the video and audio. More noise is} added to the video than the audio. What you end up with is characters that are not as sharp as they should be and a } picture not as noise-free.The monitor avoids those combine/uncombine methods by taking the video and }audio directly to the electronics. The result is a sharper, cleaner picture. There are three ways to accom}plish this. One way is to take composite video (it has the color, luminance, and sync signals) directly to the }video input. Another way is to take the chroma signal and luminance and send the to their respective inputs. }If you don't have a chroma signal but a luminance and composite video you can send the composite video to }the chroma input and the chroma component will be used. These methods give an even slightly better resolution to }the picture. If you have a high quality monitor, you might see the difference.The last way to display can}not be done on the Atari series that this program was written for. It is called "R.G.B". In this process eve}n more electronics are bypassed, which reduces the noise again.The computer, in this case, supplies the red, green}, and blue signals directly to the respective amplifiers to drive the cathodes on the monitor picture tube.*****} CONVERGENCE *****There are three guns (red, green and blue) that make up the color picture, and they must all be } in the exact same place at the same time. This is known as convergence. Vertical lines generated by the program allow} you to check vertical convergence without interference or distortion from the horizontal lines. Horizontal li}nes give you the same option, but minus the vertical lines. Crosshatch shows you both together, and that's when }you get to see just how good your set is set up. We do not recommend that you try to set up the convergence on your } set yourself (it is difficult even to a person who does this relatively often). As some sets get older, th}e convergence diverges. Trinitron sets have a master convergence control called H-stat that will } help correct the convergence and can be adjusted with the back off. But this is located on the high voltage an}ode and care and safety must be exercised if attempting to do any maintenance on any set. high voltage anl*** WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A GOOD SET *** WITH THE CONVERGENCE PATTERNCheck the intersections of the crossh}atch for ringing (if the lines are not perpendicular but have little jagged lines). Raise and lower the brightness } to see if the problem stays. This would indicate poor response to frequency changes in the video.Check f}or waves traveling along the straight lines either up or down, left or right. This would mean there is a power } supply filtering problem in the set.Check to see that the lines run from top to bottom without bowing in or out o}n the sides and that the lines from left to right do not bow inward or outward at the top and bottom. This woul}d mean the pin cushionings for the sides or top and bottom are not correct or the deflection yoke is not positioned }correctly.Check to see that the boxes are the same size from top to bottom and left to right. If not, the ver}tical and/or horizontal linearity is not set correctly.Always use the center of the screen as your starting poin}t and then work outward to the edges. The edges are the hardest to get perfect, and that depends on the quality of} the set. If the overall picture looks to be converged and none of the above problems are seen then your se}t has passed most of the test. If your set has failed something or everything consider your set's age and th}e possibilty that the video signal needs a termination at its input. Don't assume that the computer or pr}ogram is at fault unless you have obvious computer problems, in which case the screen would look nothing like wh}at we just covered.***** PURITY *****Purity means that a screen that is supposed to be one complete solid col}or is just that without showing other colors as soft patches in corners or other areas of the screen. We m}ention the corners because that's where purity problems most often show up.The following are reasons why ther}e could be purity errors: 1. The TV/Monitor internal speaker magnet could be too strong or too near the scre}en. 2. Depending on your screen size, the direction it is pointing in regards to the north could affect it. } (The larger the picture tube, the more possible this is.) 3. Residual magnetism has built up on the mask of th}e screen. Most new sets have a built in degaussing coil which is activated only when you turn on your set for the fi}rst time. To activate the degaussing coil the set must be off for at least a half hour before turning it back on.} 4. An external magnetic field such as a telephone, speakers, a cable TV adapter, computer power suppl}y, etc., may be too close to the set (like right on top or just to the side), which may cause this problem.Any magnetic} field too close to the set can cause purity problems. You must check all three fields because one might be rig}ht while the others are wrong. Again, we say if you have never done purity, don't!!! You will find that picture c}entering would have to be reset and convergence redone which is another "don't do yourself" item.***** CRO}SSHATCH WITH BOUNCE *****This test puts your set through the big test. The "APL" (Average Picture Level) is changed } from lowest to the highest level produced by the Atari. This quick change will cause the set to work a little harder} than normal. This will not hurt or damage your set unless your set is in incredibly bad shape already, but any of }the other test would have already indicated this.This test is great to use when you look for a new set. The h}igh voltage regulator and the low voltage regulator will have to react to the increase and decrease in the} screen current as the screen goes from its highest to its lowest brightness.What to look for: 1. Watch } the screen for blooming (when lines expand and go out of focus). 2. Watch the color, making sure that it  }stays white or black immediately after each change. 3. Listen to the audio to hear if it buzzes at maximum br }ightness or even crackles. 4. Make sure the convergence does not change. 5. Watch for excessive bending  }and bowing of the crosshatch. 6. Check for bleeding from lines in both modes.To leave this mode you have t }o hold the console key a little longer than usual.This program will restart with the title screen upon RESET.Pl }ease refer any questions/comments to Keith B. Morgan (70645,533) or Richard E. Forsen (73715,1257), both of Morg}an Communications Productss/comments to Keith B. Morgan (70645,533) or Richard E. 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