ASSEMBLING THE SIO2PC INTERFACE›        ›Thanks  for deciding to build it yourself! A diagram of the  circuit board is ›enclosed. It shows the top (component) side of  the board.  The other side ›is the "foil" side. In the  drawing  there appears  to be no space between ›adjacent copper pads from the  IC pins. Of course, there really is, my ›printer just isn't  accurate enough. When in doubt, check the layout against ›the schematic diagram. Please read through all before starting. Since this ›board is symmetrical, it's easy to get confused when you turn it  over, and  ›forget that you're looking at a mirror image of the  top.  I suggest marking ›"TOP" on one end, and marking IC pin #'s 1,8,9,& 16 on the board, both ›sides.››The  first work item is to solder in the 16 pin  IC  socket. Orient the pin 1 ›identifier notch correctly.  You may choose to put it more near the center of ›the board.›        ›Now,  you  should solder in the jumper wires. They are  shown  as heavy  ›lines.  But note that the leads from  the  4  electrolytic capacitors  are  also ›shown as heavy lines. In  places  where  no other  wire  could contact a ›jumper, I use bare wire,  because  I don't  like stripping insulation. Several ›jumpers are just extensions of the capacitor leads and you can usually make ›them reach with no jumper added. Note that the foils really  are close  ›together and it's easy to create solder bridges. Use  good light. I also inspect ›my work with a magnifying glass. (I started after a solder bridge gave me ›fits troubleshooting.) In cases where the board layout is hard to follow, use ›the schematic diagram to confirm connections.›                     ›Now, install the capacitors. On the electrolytics, the minus lead is marked, ›and it is the shorter one.  Yes, the places where the (+) lead of an ›electrolytic goes to ground and where the (-) lead goes to the +5 volt line ›are both correct! ›        ›Now,  It's  time to plug the IC into its socket.  There is a dimple  or notch ›marking pin 1. Be sure to get pin 1 in the right place. You usually  must  ›bend  the pins in a bit to get  them  aligned  for insertion. After installation, ›inspect closely for pins which may have bent under instead of inserting.››Now, wire the two connector cables to the board.  FIRST PULL THEM ›THROUGH  THE  GROMMETS  IN THE BOX. The Atari cable  may  ›have  a larger  grommet.  You should grease the  cable  with  some ›Vaseline, or friction may pull the grommet out. Note that the board is going ›to go into the box  component  side  down, foil side almost flush with the ›top.  You  also need  to wire the PC's DB-9 connector per the pin #'s  given  ›and the  diagram shown looking at the end the cable solders  to.  The pin ›numbers are on the connector too, if you have real good eyes. You  may ›want to dress the wires to the appropriate length  based on  where they have ›to go on the board. Note that the green  from the  Atari has to reach almost ›all the way to the other end.  Cut back  the extra wires in the Atari cable. ›Note that on the PC cable, wire colors may vary.›        ›Cable:    Wire:     To:›        ›Atari:  Violet    IC-10›"         Shield    PC cable shield›"         Black     GND›"         Blue      +5V›"         Orange    junction of 4.7K* & diode›"         Green     IC-11›        ›PC      Shield    Atari cable shield›"         Green IC-7›"         Red GND  ›"         White     IC-13›"         Black     IC-14›        ›        ›                            TESTING:›        ›Plug  the interface into the Atari (not the PC, yet) as the  only peripheral,  ›and  turn on the Atari. If you don't  get  the  blue screen and "memo pad ›mode" message, turn if off and troubleshoot. ›If  all is OK you might want to check voltages coming out of  the DB-9 ›connector. Using pin 5 as common:›        ›Pin 9 = 9v          Pin 3 = ~0v         Pin 2 = -9.4››Note that pin 3 is an input and its reading has little meaning.  Also,  plus or ›minus a couple of volts on 9  and  2  is probably OK. Now, go to your ›operating instructions and give it a try.  If all is well, put it in the box and ›put on  the  lid.  I suggest  a turn or two of electrical tape around the ends ›of  the cables to relieve strain and resist pull-out.›        ›If  you  have trouble, you can check the 232's  charge  converter output:  ›pin 2 should be about 10 volts to ground, and pin  6  at about  -10  volts to ›ground. If this isn't the  case,  check  the polarity of your capacitors. A leaky ›capacitor could also be  the culprit, or the ever popular "solder bridge."››                    PARTS LIST FOR SIO2PC KIT›        ›        ›_____     1 - BOX, /w LID, SCREWS›        ›_____     4 - 22 uF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS, 25 VOLT›        ›_____     1 - 0.1 uF DISK OR MONO* CAPACITOR›        ›_____     1 - INTEGRATED CIRCUIT, I.C.  (ICL-232 OR MAX-232)›        ›_____     1 - SIO CABLE WITH CONNECTOR›        ›_____     1 - 4 CONDUCTOR CABLE, SHIELDED›        ›_____     1 - DB9 OR DB 25 CONNECTOR, AS RQ'D FOR YOUR PC›        ›_____     1 - CONNECTOR HOOD›        ›_____     1 - CIRCUIT BOARD, RADIO SHACK 276-150 ›        ›_____     6" BARE WIRE›        ›_____     6" INSULATED WIRE›        ›_____     1 - 16 PIN IC SOCKET›        ›_____     1 - ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS›        ›_____     1 - CIRCUIT BOARD LAYOUT››_____    1 - SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM››_____    1 - 4.7K - OHM RESISTOR››_____    1 - DIODE - BYV10-30 or 1N5817››* The MONO type capacitor looks like a resistor or diode & should be ›marked 0.1 or 104.›                ›          Please check items received against this list.›