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D:TRAVEL2.TXT  Bpd B@AdA `}Us 6-?:, "@BPu/"@6-%@#!/6-w5"@6-&@)  a}56-x AM-@@`F2A(@@&P:'@,J M$626-%+$A ,26 b}-?:<<<A <@,6x6.Page )67@,.=:%@,B67B:,%@,. of a67B:,%@,.=:%@,x c}67B:,%@,. 69#6-?:<<BsNii6._hhhhhhhhhؠԄձ˦L i@`8 s}ɠͥԐթԥ?NOF67@,.3`ΰȐ@i `8@ɀఴO6-C:,HN@@6. t}6HHHffok ԍЎйsйg gfhhh@RN006.&pp@T A\NJ;@B,A6. u}*hhh˪hhBhEhDhIhH V˽Cԩ`J6-C:,fNY;@W,P6.9hhhhhhhؠ`ˑ v}`Y6-C:,pNm;A,m6.VpppNP w}zNss67@,.`N{N''67 x}A,.A6N==6.3hՠ` ީ``N996./hhhhhؠ y}``Nss67@,.`hhhhhؠυȱυȱύȱύȱύȱύ8ԥiϥiЩة z})۱JJJN[[67@,.HJ٥ ۑԥեвЬ`R$D2:TRAV {}EL2.BASJJJN[[67@,.HJ٥ ۑԥեвЬ`R$D2:TRAV UV.oPICTLEBYLTXTAMATAPGSCAKPGAMDLTDLITKBAMPGAPDLSTMSMDMMMBDCMP@ (((((} (The magnificent harbors of Sydney, the remote splendors of Perth on the Indian Ocean, the beachfront hotels and ~}casinos of the Gold Coast - these delights may already have lured you to the land Down Under if you read the first par}t of Mervyn Douglas' "G'day, Mate." In this second half of the article, we'll take a look at Melbourne, the} Great Barrier Reef, the Outback, and other fascinating places in Australia.) } The Gold Coast in Queensland is the undisputed king of vacation spots in Australia. But if you'd} prefer some place quieter, then the Sunshine Coast may be just what you're looking for. This 38-mile stretch of green} forest and golden sand begins 58 miles north of Brisbane. The Sunshine Coast is laid back. Beaches are pure, wide} and flat with great surfing and fishing. You can still walk down any one of the beaches and be quite alone. There } are, however, plenty of nice restaurants along the Sunshine Coast and motels in all towns, including the new }Noosa International resort which is a full-service hotel with two pools, spas and saunas. } Located farther north between the Tropic of Capricorn and the Equator is the real Queen}sland. This is where the Great Barrier Reef shows off the rich colors of the Coral Sea and where flowering trees gro}w as if in a greenhouse. Here in North Queensland the temperatures are always high, sometimes oppressive, bu}t a cooling ocean breeze or tropical rainstorm appearing from nowhere provides welcome relief. Cairns is th}e gateway to the Australian tropics and a center for big game fishing (ask Lee Marvin about their black marlin!), scuba } diving, yachting, and explorations of the reef. Cairns people move to their own beat, slowly, friendly. One } really feels far away in Cairns, cut off by distance and a satisfying, timeless feeling of well-being. Shops and }restaurants are plentiful and the seafood served at these establishments would have to rate best in the world. Try giant} prawns (ya don't call 'em shrimps in Australia), barramundi, lobster, calamari, crab, oysters, clams, mussels} and locally grown avocado - washed down by a crisp white wine. Because of the climate, North Queensland is best }visited in winter. The accent is informality - smart, casual comfort is in and suits, apart from the most formal occ}asions, are out. On the other hand, a suit w}ould probably come in handy while visiting Victoria. This smallest of mainland states, located on the southeaster}n corner of the continent and boasting Melbourne, Australia's second largest city, is probably best visited in } summertime. With 2.8 million inhabitants, Melbourne is serene. If Sydney reminds one of an American city}, then Melbourne seems more British and proper. The brilliant gardens, public and private, do add color and} charm to the city. But there is more to this beautiful town than just gardens. Architecture, such as the Flinder}s Street Railway Station, stands as a monument to the way things were, and the buildings of the Victorian Arts }Centre paint a picture of the way things will be. Melbourne is perhaps the most ethnic of all Australian cities}, with lots of Chinese, Turks, Yugoslavians and Greeks. The restaurants, in both price and cuisine, are as div}erse as the population, as is the downtown shopping. To get downtown or across town, many take the trams, similar} to the clanking cable cars of San Francisco. Melburnians pride themselves on their city's cultural } achievements. Most major ballets, operas and concerts by internationally renowned stars are staged at the State Thea}tre or the Melbourne Concert Hall. And the National Gallery of Victoria, Australia's finest art museum, is well endowed w}ith European masters plus exhibits from Australia's best. But if it's the original and authentic Aust}ralian art you're interested in, then central Australia, known as the Outback, is your destination. Locat}ed in the very center of Australia, and within the borders of the Northern Territory, lies the world's largest} monolith. Rising 1,000 feet above the flat desert floor, Ayers Rock has been known by Aboriginals for mill}ennia as Uluru (pronounced You-la-roo) and in Aboriginal lore is a sacred site. Rock paintings, thousands of years} old, by Australia's original artists decorate walls in caves hewn in the rock. It's a five-mile "stroll" or } drive around the base of Ayers Rock and it seems twice that distance when climbing it! I recommend that only the }nimble-footed and physically fit attempt this climb, and strong rubber- soled shoes are a must. The best time to begin }the ascent is early in the morning. The air is cooler and calm, the skies more likely to be clear, and you'll have pl}enty of time to take in the spectacular views of the desert floor and the distant Olga Mountains. Remember your camer}a and something cool to drink - there is no McDonald's at the summit - just lots of annoying flies! These little pes}ts are a year- round phenomenon in Australia's Red Centre. They occur in such numbers that I'm certain all that's r}equired is some enterprising American to turn them into a full-blown tourist attraction in their own right! Mo}st ordinary mortals, though, simply use a can of personal insect repellent to allow themselves a little respite from } the little wretches. Central Australia is an obvious location to "rough it" should you choose, but ther}e is a civilized way to visit one of the world's most uncivilized places. Lo and behold, located in the shadow of} Ayers Rock is the Yulara Resort, where hedonists can swim, dine and relax in five-star luxury. There are no sharks }in the pools, but keep your children indoors at night. It's believed by many that a dingo (native Australian wild dog}) was responsible for the mysterious disappearance a few years ago of a small baby child from a nearby camping site. Th}e child's mother, charged with murder of the baby, has since spent considerable and much-publicized time behind b}ars. The mother, Lindy Chamberlain, now a household name in Australia, is today free. She has always maintained h}er innocence, but the controversy lingers and the question remains: "What really did happen to Azoria, her daughter?" } This macabre story has gripped the imagination of Australia for years and its mystery, intrigue, controversy, and }ultimate truth may never be known. By the way, the story has already been sold to and published by a prominent Australia}n periodical. Watch now for the books, T.V. miniseries, documentary, feature film, T-shirts, and bumper sti}ckers which are sure to follow! Canberra, the nat}ional capital, is also worth a quick look. Just a few minutes in the public gallery while Parliament is in session} would be a most sobering experience. See grown men and women misbehave worse than you did at school. See them abus}e, insult and threaten each other, all under parliamentary privilege! See Australia's elected representative}s waste hours and hours as they argue over the best ways to waste those millions of taxpayers' dollars on } harebrained social benefits schemes! If you think it sounds like a mini- Washington, D.C., then it also looks like} a smaller version. Canberra is a carefully planned though somewhat sterile city of about 200,000. I estimate }that approximately twenty percent of those 200,000 people work - the remainder are public servants! It's a harsh c}limate in the national capital. Hot in summer and bitterly cold (by Australian standards) in winter, a climate m}any disgruntled Aussies believe is entirely suitable for its undeserving clutch of overpaid, underworked, o}verprivileged bureaucrats. You may be interested to know that much of Canberra's original and current planning is the p}roduct of American architects, including the huge new Parliament House, currently under construction atop Capital Hi}ll. Provided there are no excessive strikes by construction workers, it is due for completion in 1988 - just in } time for the nation's bicentennial celebrations. Th}ere are plenty of other interesting locations and reasons for visiting Australia. These are but a few of my} personal loves, plus one or two that I love to hate! But before you commit yourself to a holiday Down Under, prepare} for a whole new lifestyle. Everything is different - from the look and feel of the currency to the right-hand d}rive motor vehicles. Australians tend to have a dry, somewhat cynical sense of humor and are sometimes suspic}ious of raucous or intrusive outsiders, even of those simply sporting an out-of- town accent. They are not an} arrogant race, yet are proud. Aussies are not known for their "flag waving" or excessive patriotism, nor do they } generally hold even their highest political leaders in much esteem. But essentially, Australians are warm and } honest, maybe a little less extroverted than the typical North American, but always ready to share the }delights of their country with a new-found friend. And as }for the country itself, do not expect it to be another North America, for you will be disappointed. Australia, 200} years old in 1988, is still developing its own identity, its own lifestyle and its own culture. No tipping, just remem}ber when it's your turn to buy the next round of drinks. In other words, when in Australia - do as the Aussies do - and }don't forget to pay your $20 departure tax before you leave. In Australia, the Tax Department always has the las}t word, mate! } (MERVYN DOUGLAS is a seasoned traveler between Australia and America. The first part of his report appears in } the September l986 issue of THE NEW ALADDIN.) e first part of his report appears in P  q000  * */P0``@*/P0``@*0P  p//  ? } @*0P  p//  ?  @0@/0p_0  0p@0@/0p_0  0*P?p?  }?0*P?p?  ? :/P / @0  `JP / @0  `j/`/ /0 @0 }/0 / /`/ /0 @0 /0 / / / zz `z` :jJjJj}p`JzpJjJ*:PJ*&:PJ/I::/6*@:/I*`:/FJJ/9}PzJ?0@`Z?@0:j@j/p("j/@ Jz?p?pO`OP?@?@?0/}@/@000000* * * Z J0J/,J?},J?LZ_j),Z_z ZoZZoZZoJZoJ Zo.*0j* Z Z}0Z*@,L0,,j*P, |< jP\, |,j:P<,, ,j:P<,, j*P},<, < Zo*@jo*@jo*@jo*@Jo*@jo*@jo@jo*Pj*Pj*Pjo}*PZ_:@ZO:0Z?Z Z?.J?j'P/j-M-z/Z+'z/J-}z/J7z*]z5z7*gzEzM*mzUj7E`wzUjM5`}jejG@jej}=jej7jujMjujGjUZMjujGZUZ]ZuZgZeZmZU%ZgJeZ]J}U%Zw`ZU-Jm-@Z57%J@j%]: &j5G%:z5]:z%W%Jz5]*z5W%}+z5m'z5g%p--jUmpGZEg%`MZem:`GZUg%:P]ZU}:PGZUw%:}@=JU}%*%m@7JE%*WeW@MJU%*=M@7JE%*%7@]:5%-@GJ%5%'@MJ5%}%*&*%-@7J%557@=J%%E%-@7Jǥj5'@=J%U@7JeP=Je`'J%e`}JEUM%p%ZU5'Ep%zup%5p-p55-5:]'5:'''=%]'%7}=- =7' ]u-@P-pЇ} -Wpw]g}m@Н@-MwP0@M 7 P< ,0<0,@<}0\\L \,<0l @ L\L ,<L00 l@<0L<L <00} ,< @<0<,,< <,<00  `, ,L\ L<< '  l - -}G'}w]W]P<00  `, ,L\ L<< '  l - -*@ AUBwcBcBc B B @ BW ?&(b?67?33B?B}[AP>>>@**"A99!@//P@' (} B'6. D:RUSSIAN.CMP6.ian RE}NdezF26.( by Giselle Kroebel F6. D:RUSSIAN.TXT  Bpd B@AdA}Us 6-?:, "@BPu/"@6-%@#!/6-w5"@6-&@) }56-x AM-@@`F2A(@@&P:'@,J M$626-%+$A ,26}-?:<<<A <@,6x6.Page )67@,.=:%@,B67B:,%@,. of a67B:,%@,.=:%@,x}67B:,%@,. 69#6-?:<<BsNii6._hhhhhhhhhؠԄձ˦L i@`8 ɀɠͥ}թԥ?NOF67@,.3`ΰȐ@i `8@ɀఴO6-C:,HN@@6.6HHHffok }ԍЎйsйg gfhhh@RN006.&pp@T A\NJ;@B,A6.*hhh˪hhBhEhD}hIhH V˽Cԩ`J6-C:,fNY;@W,P6.9hhhhhhhؠ`ˑ`Y6-C:,pNm};A,m6.VpppNPzNss67@,.`}N{N''67A,. }A6N==6.3hՠ` ީ``N996./hhhhhؠ` }`Nss67@,.`hhhhhؠυȱυȱύȱύȱύȱύ8ԥiϥiЩة٠)۱JJJN[[67 }@,.HJ٥ ۑԥեвЬ`R$ D:RUSSIAN.BAS۱JJJN[[67oTU%PICTLEBYLTXTAMATAPGSCAKPGAMDLTDLITKBAMPGAPDLSTMSMDMMMBDCMP@ (((((B} The snow fell soundlessly in very large flakes. For a fleeting moment I thought I must be dreaming; Moscow, New }Year's Eve, the Bolshoi Theater. I had stood here before, many years ago, with the same happy anticipation, to see "T}he Nutcracker Suite." Then I had my hand safely tucked into my dad's, and my nose buried into my mom's fur coat}. This time I entered the building with a group of students from the United States, left my parka and rubber boots in} the cloak room, and slipped into a pair of sparkling high heels which drew many side glances from Russian wom}en. The performance of the Bolshoi Ballet, accompanied by the Bolshoi Theater Orchestra, could only be desc}ribed in superlatives. And, oh, yes, the Bolshoi has a "Golden Boy" again, but I doubt very seriously that they a}re willing to share him with the rest of the world yet, lest he may follow Baryshnikov's footsteps. } Three months prior to this evening, I had been asked if I wanted to join a grou}p of American students on a trip to see Russia in winter. The fare seemed unbelievably low in price, so despite m}y super-stringent "adult- going-back-to-school" budget I soon found myself enroute to the Soviet Union via Hels}inki. At Moscow Airport the military controls the international terminal, and except for a handful of profes}sors, our coordinator and I, no one else had ever seen a Soviet soldier face to face. Their presence wa}s very evident at all exits and at passport controls. Russian passport control officers are never flustered. No smile fr}om a pretty female or friendly "hello" from a male student ever drew a response from them. They stared at us and }then stared at our passports for a long time. No individual entry was made into any passport; only the group visa } our coordinator held for the total group was validated. We} were lucky our plane was the first one to arrive that evening. Toilet paper ran out after the arrivals }from Stockholm and Frankfurt. Customs declarations had to be filled out painstakingly, especially pertaining to  }money, drugs, and jewelry. Foreigners in Russia are only allowed to shop at the Berioska, a chain of stores c!}atering to tourists, where one can pay with American Express, VISA, MasterCard, and Carte Blanche, as we"}ll as all main foreign currencies. The Berioska issues receipts. As one leaves the Soviet Union, all rubles have#} to be converted back into one's home currency. The remaining currency plus the amount of one's receipts has t$}o equal the money amount of one's customs declaration. If it doesn't, one is in trouble. They do check. %} Ours was one of the first groups of American students visiting the U.S.&}S.R. after the U.S. boycott of the Olympics in Russia. Nevertheless, we were received very graciously in Moscow an'}d Intourist housed us at the famous Cosmos Hotel which had been built by the French for Russia's Olympiad and w(}as ultra-modern. Imagine, it sported heated towel bars in the bathroom! The toilet paper was of the finest kind,)} and soon we learned to keep a wad of it wherever we went. We were most certainly*} given the best food available in Moscow and were waited on with devout attention. Some students did not care for yog+}urt in the morning or a variety of cold cuts. But there were always eggs in any shape or form, white and rye bread,}, butter and cheese, sweet rolls, sometimes even hot cereal, coffee and tea. Milk was hard to come by, -} however. We had the hardest time making the waiters understand that we wanted our tea or coffee with our brea.}kfast, not after it, as was customary with the Soviets. Lunch is the largest meal in Russia and consists /}of appetizers, salads, the main course, dessert, coffee and tea. Water is served with all meals, and sometimes we h0}ad juice. In Leningrad, the last city on our agenda, we were not allowed to consume water. A micro-organism from1} Lake Ladoga had found its way into the city's water supply and triggered an epidemic which filled the hospitals wit2}h very ill people. We bought mineral water for a week to brush our teeth and took showers with our mouths close3}d. Intourist provided for each bus of students a translator and tour gui4}de for excursions. Ours was named Lyoba. She must have been in her thirties, was very smartly dressed, and was very 5} diplomatic. The day we toured Lenin's grave on Red Square, she directed our bus (and the three others that belo6}nged to our group) to a point where we could cut into the long line of waiting people from a side street. When ques7}tioned why she would cheat her own people by letting us take shortcuts, she replied loftily with a smile: "Oh, we8} are not cheating, we are just joining the line at a different point!" In downtown Moscow there are, of cours9}e, no shopping centers. The butcher, baker and candlestick maker have their stores on the ground floor of apar:}tment buildings. Every early afternoon, one could observe trucks parking close to the stores. Consumer goods w;}ould be unloaded, and quickly thereafter the stores would fill with shoppers, sometimes lining up outside even i<}n snowstorms. Lyoba explained that the traffic in the morning was too congested to allow consumer goods to =} be delivered at that time. Shortages? No, she had not heard of any. Well, we did; because after dinner we went on o>}ur own little excursions (curfew was at midnight) and talked to people on the street, in the subway, in stores an?}d in restaurants. On a one- to-one basis, most of them were a little reserved at first, but soon opened up, and@} we found sincere, warm, eager individuals who wanted to hear about the U.S., wanted to know about Star Wars, and talkA}ed with concern about nuclear deterrence. One evening, about 9:3B}0 P.M., I stood on Red Square. I had come there by Metro to watch the changing of the guard at Lenin's grave. The C}square was lit by powerful red and green lights which shone against the Kremlin. Above the wall two largeD} red flags with hammer and sickle flew in the wind. I felt like an extra in a movie scenario watching the guards E} goose-stepping smartly over the cobblestones. People from I don't know how many countries stood and millF}ed about in little groups, and suddenly someone stepped beside me, lifted the hood of my parka, and smiled atG} me. It was a young Russian sailor. After the first suprise I smiled back and soon we were communicating.H} He spoke some English, German, and French; and I proudly tried a few Russian words on him, which threw him intI}o fits of laughter. We ended up having tea together. I gave him my American Indian turquoise ring and received in retJ}urn his sailor emblem, which he removed from his jacket. He likes the navy, he said, but he thinks the government K}stinks. I took a taxi back to beat the curfew. Next morning we visited Zagorsk,L} the last working monastery in the U.S.S.R. Once a bulwark against invasions from the north, today it is a compound of M} museums, churches, and refectories of exceptional beauty run by the government as tourist attractions and admiN}nistered by the Greek Orthodox Church. Driving to Zagorsk, about 50 kilometers north of Moscow, we passed from the O}inner city to the outskirts and then into the open countryside. There are no suburbs like those in the western world P}around Moscow. The apartment houses suddenly just stop. Then one sees old factory buildings, all evacuated and cQ}ompletely shut down, windows broken, deserted. Not even Moscow's famous crows visit here. Where is the Soviet induR}stry? What happened to it? Lyoba explained they were in the process of renovation. There are no privately owned S}family homes, no personal land owners. So there are no taxes. Where are the billions of rubles coming from thaT}t keep their huge, well-running industrial/military complex alive? U} I think Russia is on the brink of yet another revolution, very private, very individualistic, originating in its V}core and coming with a new generation. That generation is western orientated. Blue jeans are in high demaW}nd. Pink Floyd is not only played during cabaret time at the Yalta Hotel on the Crimea, but also in private homes X}like that of a young Leningrad economist who invited me and three young male students, after debates at the frieY}ndship house, to his one-room apartment for private discussions. The music was intended to drown out our conversZ}ation in case a neighbor was eavesdropping. He offered us wine, had some himself, and loosened up a bit. Even thou[}gh he had a degree he made the same money as a streetcleaner or meatpacker. The government pays everybody the same\} monthly salary, and although housing is cheap, no one actually can save, for instance, for a trip. So many ]} young people resort to dealing in the black market to be able to afford a trip to East Germany or Yugoslavia. He s^}aid a trip to the U.S.A. is completely out of the question. "Ask me anything about the U.S.S.R. you want to,"_} he urged. We looked at each other and were very, very careful. "I know everything about your country," he said, and a`}gain we exchanged glances. Were we being monitored? The conversation changed to insignificant thinga}s after that, and soon he wanted to trade a few items. We left with some nice souvenirs while he acquired jeans and T-b}shirts. T- shirts are the rage in Leningrad, which is very cosmopolitan. c} And then there is the Hermitage, the winter palace of the czars, the pearl on the Neva. Even visiting it on d} three occasions does not provide time enough to absorb all of the treasures stored therein. Like all of us, I was e} overwhelmed. All the world beats a path to its doors, and every day, year in and year out, the line for admif}ssion never lets up. It is always four people wide and several kilometers long. But what do all these peog}ple come to see? Soviet paintings? Soviet sculpture? No, they come to see Rembrandt, Cranach, Boticelli, Rubq}B%DOS SYSB*)DUP SYSB SCHAR TXTB \TRAVEL2 BASBY}TRAVEL2 TXTBTRAVEL2 CMPB |RUSSIAN BASBf RUSSIAN TXTB+|RUSSIAN CMPBGETFWA BASBDMITRE FWABBMOERAKI FWAB!FPAINT BASB/gPAINT CMPB PAINT TXTETEKAPO FWA! TRAVEL1 BAS TRAVEL1 CMP\ TRAVEL1 TXT|GETFWA1 BASMENU AUTORUN SYSens, Durer, Michelangelo, Degas, Monet, Picasso, and endless others, works by artists from other nations r}amassed here by the czars whom the Bolsheviks hated and exterminated. So I asked myself what, besides a few towering ss}culptures of glorified workers and monuments to the dead of Leningrad, was actual Soviet culture? I could find very lt}ittle indeed except for works by Solzhenitsyn and Sakharov which are banned in the U.S.S.R. The Kirov u} ballet and opera house in Leningrad is the only place of culture where progressive new works are performed v} and played although they are not always met with consent. Arw}riving from Leningrad in Helsinki bound for the U.S. I felt as if a weight had been lifted off my shouldersx}. The Finnish customs office stamped my passport. I looked at the stamp and searched for a Russian one. But none was ty}o be found. The Soviets had validated and kept our group visa. My passport never authenticated my visit. Only my memz}ories did. (GISELLE KROEBEL is a We{}st German writer now living in the United States.) 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The large stones half buried in the beach are a geo- logical oddity. They we:}re formed naturally and serve as an unusual and interesting artistic focal point. Next you'll see Mitre Peak:} in Milford Sound. It has the distinction of being one of the highest peaks rising straight out of the water :} anywhere in the world. The summit is 1500 meters above sea level. :} Last is Lake Tekapo, a popular resort for boating, water skiing and fishing in the summer and snow skiing in t:}he winter. The small stone church in the picture is the Church of the Good Shepherd. :} Our thanks to Harvey for bringing us this view of his homeland. Press the spacebar t:}o begin your journey to spectacular New Zealand. ng us this view of his homeland. 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D:TRAVEL1.CMP6.aY, Ma塠B}F26.( by Mervyn Douglas F6. D:TRAVEL1.TXT  Bpd B@AdAUs B}6-?:, "@BPu/"@6-%@#!/6-w5"@6-&@) 56-B}x AM-@@`F2A(@@&P:'@,J M$626-%+$A ,26-?:<Nii6._hhhhhhhhhؠԄձ˦L i@`8 B} ɀɠͥԐթԥ?NOF67@,.3`ΰȐ@i `8@ɀఴO6-C:,HN@@6C}.6HHHffok ԍЎйsйg gfhhh@RN006.&pp@T A\NJ;@B,A6C}.*hhh˪hhBhEhDhIhH V˽Cԩ`J6-C:,fNY;@W,P6.9hhhhhhhؠ`ˑC}`Y6-C:,pNm;A,m6.VpppNPC}zNss67@,.`N{N''6C}7A,.A6N==6.3hՠ` ީ``N996./hhhhhؠC}``Nss67@,.`hhhhhؠυȱυȱύȱύȱύȱύ8ԥiϥiЩةC}٠)۱JJJN[[67@,.HJ٥ ۑԥեвЬ`R$ D:TRAC}VEL1.BAS۱JJJN[[67@,.HJ٥ ۑԥեвЬ`R$ D:TRA@ EiͩkΩ͙kCop j`j j`Hi͝Νh`3C3}on (plus twice that many kangaroos and koalas, and a billion times that many blowflies). The capitals of the seK?}ven states, as well as Canberra, the Federal Capital, are spread wide apart; and there are many areas K@} between that remain virtually uninhabited. So transport poses a question. KA} What is the most effective method of seeing the country? If time is short, my experiKB}ence suggests that you fly. But beware. In comparison with domestic air travel in the U.S., Australian airKC} fares are quite expensive and should be booked in advance with your travel agent in the U.S. However, and KD}this is the bit that cheeses all us Aussies off, you're entitled to discount fares which allow you to fly aKE}round Australia cheaper than most Australians! KF} If you're visiting on a six-month visa (the longest holiday visa allowed), then take your time. BuKG}ses are a reliable but somewhat cramped way of seeing the country. There are also the Railways of Australia, KH} crisscrossing the continent with modern (and not-so-modern) passenger trains that include sleeping and diniKI}ng coaches on longer trips. I recommend the trains, which travel through some glorious countryside, often farKJ} flung from the many townships, highway diners and sometimes tacky tourist resorts which follow the maiKK}n roads. Should you prefer to drive while Down Under, there are maKL}ny reputable car rentals throughout the country. Like the British, Aussies drive on the left side of the street. RoaKM}d signs conform to international standards; the roads themselves, however, often don't! At night, massive kanKN}garoos can appear from nowhere in the middle of a country road, and some almost equally massive pot holes can alsoKO} take you by surprise - especially on some sections in the far North. Tropical climates plus the sheer KP} isolation of these highways discourage regular maintenance. A valid driver's license is needed to operate a car in AustKQ}ralia, and it's law for all car occupants to buckle seat belts. It also helps to understand metrics as all distaKR}nces are measured in kilometers and gas (known there as petrol) is sold (none too cheaply) in litres. PriceKS}s fluctuate wildly from 42 to 75 cents per litre. To describe in oneKT} paragraph the nation of Australia would be as impossible as describing the United States in the same way. KU} It is every bit as diverse as the U.S.A., and then some. KV} So in an attempt to outline cities or areas of most immediate interest, I shall begin with the oldest, largeKW}st and most cosmopolitan city in the country, Sydney, before moving on to Perth and the Gold Coast. (We'll KX} complete our tour in the next issue of THE NEW ALADDIN.) CitKY}ies are rarely beautiful, and when they are there's usually an obvious reason. The hills of Rome make that city beauKZ}tiful, and canals do the same for Venice. For Sydney, it's the magnificent harbors - a playground, beachfront, shK[}ipping lane, navy base, second home for sailboat enthusiasts, even backdrop for its opera house. With a population oK\}f 3.3 million, Sydney's a world-class city of opera, ballet, theater, nightclubs, cabarets, restaurants, beaches, anK]}d history - all within easy reach by a good, safe public transport system. Kings Cross, just east of downtown, was a K^} playground of American servicemen during the war years and is still a favorite for many visitors. It's K_}kind of like Sydney's answer to New York's Greenwich Village and Times Square, complete with weirdos, hookers and K`} gaudy lights. But a warning when visiting the Cross at night: while not being particularly dangerous, it does haveKa} a higher-than-usual crime rate which tends to keep the local police department busier than in other precinctsKb}. Must-do's in Sydney include cruising the harbors, vKc}isiting the zoo, window shopping at Double Bay (stick to window shopping - they don't call it "Double Pay" for nuKd}thin'!), inspect Sydney Tower (the tallest building in the Southern Hemisphere), and travel fifty miles west to the Ke}beautiful Blue Mountains. Perth is the rapidly growingKf} capital of Western Australia, a rather large state that would hold Alaska and Texas and still have room for Arizona! Kg} Perth may also well be the world's largest unknown, remote city. Nestling on the Indian Ocean, it is Kh} closer to Southeast Asia than Sydney. Head west across the ocean and the next land you touch is the African coasKi}t. Nothing is really near Perth, which makes it all the more surprising that next year the eyes of the world will be oKj}n this city when it hosts Australia's first defense of the America's Cup. However, Americans began to learnKk} of Perth in 1962 when it lit up its nightlights to greet John Glenn as he orbited the planet. Kl} Back down to Earth and eleven miles off Perth's coast is Rottnest Island - the only place on earth Km}where quokkas, weird pint-sized animals that look like a cross between a kangaroo and a rat, are found in their naturKn}al habitat. And no, they don't carry rabies - rabies is non-existent in Australia. Ko} Back across the continent to the east, the state of Queensland boasts Kp} one of the most ideal climates in the world. Generally known as the most politically and socially conservative statKq}e in the country, nature has been anything but conservative in Queensland. Brisbane, the capital, is one of thKr}e most boring larger cities in the country; however, an hour's drive to its south lies the Gold Coast, AustralKs}ia's Miami Beach, Waikiki and Atlantic City all rolled into one. Like Miami, it's sometimes difficult to see thKt}e sea for the highrise hotels along the beachfront. Like Waikiki, it's sometimes difficult to find a spot on the beKu}ach to spread your towel, and like Atlantic City, you can win a little and lose a lot gambling. There are more attKv}ractions on the Gold Coast than you could possibly wish for; consequently, the Gold Coast is Australia's undisputKw}ed King of vacation spots - at least for Aussies. Kx} In the next issue of THE NEW ALADDIN, we'll look at the Sunshine Coast, the Great Barrier Reef, Melbourne, the OutbKy}ack, Canberra, and other fascinating areas of Australia. Till then, mate...g'day! Kz} (MERVYN DOUGLAS is a seasoned traveler between AustraK{}lia and America.) 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