The IDEal Hard Drive

(part 2 of Smart IDE)

by Bob Wolley

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So,you got the SmartIDE working? Want to add an IDE hard drive? OK. Let's do it.

Inside or Out?
You have two options: mount the drive inside your 1200XL or leave it outside. There is very little to do if you mount it external to the 1200XL and not too much extra to put it under the covers. I prefer it inside myself, so I'm going to lay it out that way for you. At some point in time, I'll do an IDE only upgrade where you don't need all the SmartOS hardware and the IDE code can be burned into the OS ROM.

Little Enuf
Refer to the SmartIDE schematic. The only additional parts needed to add an IDE drive are the 40 pin IDC header and the two 75 ohm resistors on U4. Piece of cake. Just be sure to mount the resistors as close to U4 as possible and keep your 40 conductor cable under 24 inches. The rest of the modification deals with mounting the drive.

In the 1200XL
Although I used a 2.5 inch drive in the unit on our cover, there is enough room for the more common 3.5 inch HDs. Either way, the internal Atari power components have to go. This includes the regulators, filter capacitors, rectifier and the heat sink. You must also remove the modulator, and the AC power input connector.

Mounting

Pulling Teeth
First, the modulator. This is a bear to remove since it 1/16th inch gap between the board and the bottom of the modulator. What you are doing is bending the motherboard away from the lug so don't go king kong here. Now melt the other outside lug and pry it up a little. Cut the four signal leads at the back of the modulator and work the two rear lugs out of the board. Eventually, you will be able to completely remove the front two pins and the job will get easier. Take your time and be patient. Don't crack your motherboard! Clear the four signal pins at the rear. *** very important *** Add a jumper from the last pin (marked with a 1) to the ground surface that was under the modulator. Refer to the photograph of this step. The modulator is used as a ground distribution conductor and if you don't add the wire, you get a terrible video problem!

New +5v Input
Next step is to remove the 9vac power connector - just unsolder it with a 40 watt iron. I then soldered in a two pin polarized connector that will serve as the +5 volt input for the 1200XL. Orient the connector so that the ground is on the left and the +5 volts is on the right.

Old Power Parts
Now, the power. Pull C39 (the large filter capacitor) and cut the legs off of the rectifier (CR12). Disconnect the regulators at Al and A2 and demount the heatsink entirely. Clear out all the solder from the removed component mounting holes and add 22 gauge or larger jumper wires to the motherboard. The jumper starts at the far left pad of the rectifier CR12 (check the detail photograph). It connects to the right most pad of the A2 and Al regulators (check the detail photograph again). What we are doing here is providing a path from the power connector that we added to the +5 volt buss on the motherboard. Now add a wire from anode of CR11 to the anode of CR9 (yep, check the detail photograph). This takes care of ground. You should now have a solid connection from the left hand pin of your new power connector to the 1200XL ground buss and a solid connection from the right hand power pin to both +5 volt l200XL busses. Check them a couple of times and be sure!

Mod Mods

New Power Input
In the space left vacant by the modulator, I installed a panel mounted 6 pin DIN plug that will serve as an external power input (be smart and use a power connector that will NOT fit in your monitor output jack...). Just ream out the modulator connector hole and screw in the DIN socket. Make sure you offset the new, larger hole high enough to clear the motherboard. This power plug will supply +5 volts to both the motherboard and the IDE drive as well as + 12 volts for the drive. Wire a four pin AMP connector (for the drive) and a compatible +5 volt connector to this socket (see detail photo). Check everything three times before you apply power to this, OK?

Mount the Drive
Last, but not least, mount the IDE drive on a piece of perfboard and add standoffs for the motherboard. I used a Shack 276-158 board that just happened to be a perfect size for the job. Nothing critical here, mount the drive in the cover if you like, but there are some existing holes over in that corner of the 1200XL (where the shield used to mount) that make it a drop-in.

PS Mods

Do Your Own Thing
You need not make your physical layout match mine - just provide yourself with an easy to handle, clean configuration. For example, my 1200XL motherboard is still easy to remove since the power just plugs into the board and the DIN power connector is high enough for me to slide underneath it. Since the drive is mounted to the motherboard and not the case, the whole assembly comes out as a unit. I do use an external drive on one of my other IDE 1200XL since it mounts a SyQuest EZ-135 cartridge drive. I probably could have mounted the EZ 135 inside also, but I like to be able to see the drive when I change cartridges. So, use a configuration that suits you - just be neat.

Oh, the power supply. If you mount the drive externally, the l200XL just uses it's old Atari supply. If you choose an internal mount as I have shown, use a small switching supply or a good linear unit to power both the IDE drive and the 1200XL. One possibility if you use a 2.5 inch drive is an old 5205T external power supply since the 2.5s do not require + 12 volts.

OK - all you need is software!



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These pages created and maintained by Clarence Dyson.

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